Stari Grad – THE 2026 TRAVEL GUIDE

One of the main attractions of Stari Grad town is its well-preserved historic centre, which features narrow cobbled streets, stone houses, and ancient buildings such as St. Stephen's Church and Tvrdalj Fortress (see more below). The town's Riva, the name given to the island’s waterfronts, is a very popular spot for visitors, lined with al fresco bars and restaurants, charming souvenir stalls, and fishing boats. It’s the perfect place to stroll along just before sunset.

The oldest town on Hvar Island is also known for its cultural events, including the Stari Grad Summer Festival, which features music, theatre, and dance performances, as well as exhibitions of local art and handicrafts. The town is also home to several museums, including the Stari Grad Museum (see below), which displays artefacts from the town's ancient Greek and Roman past.

Just walking through the historic core of Stari Grad is a trip back in time. Underneath the cobblestone streets, there are mosaics dating back to the Roman era. In 2022, during excavations before the city began construction on sewage and water pipes, a much wider area of mosaics than had been unearthed a century ago was discovered.

“The mosaics are decorated with multicolour geometric and floral motifs and are of superior workmanship,” said Vilma Matulić, a conservator at the Stari Grad Museum, “We will have a better insight into the purpose of this luxurious building of the Roman Faria after the analysis and interpretation of archaeological finds and after merging all the plans of rooms with mosaic floors under surrounding houses, which were excavated in previous decades.” By comparison with similar mosaics and known workshop styles, they can be dated to the 2nd century.

Petar Hektorović (1487-1572) was a poet, writer, and humanist, best known for his famous work “Ribanje i Ribarsko Prigovaranje” (Fishing and Fishermen's Conversations), which is considered one of the most important works of Croatian literature.

Petar was born into a noble family and received a humanistic education, which he furthered during his travels throughout Italy. He was an important figure in the cultural life of the island, where he served as governor and played a key role in the construction of the fortress on the island.

His works include poems, letters, and a travelogue describing his pilgrimage to the Holy Land. He is regarded as one of the most important figures in the development of literature and culture in the region during the Renaissance.

The “Tvrdalj” (or Fortress in English) that Hektorović built in the 16th century is a must-see in Stari Grad. A fortified Renaissance castle, the Tvrdalj expresses a humanistic sensibility. In addition to practical necessities of a dangerous era – walls up to three metres thick – the Tvrdalj is also notable for its garden, which features a seawater fish pond, shaded pergolas, and Latin inscriptions of his life philosophy carved into the stone.

Hektorović lived in the Tvrdalj until his death in 1572, and the castle remained in his family's possession until the 19th century. Today, the Tvrdalj is open to visitors as a museum, with exhibits on the author's life and work, as well as on the history and culture of Stari Grad and the entire island, but local residents still live in the upper chambers of this historic building.

Entry is €5 per person. Niko, Tvrdalj’s friendly guardian, is usually on site from 10am to 2pm. If you arrive later, simply ring the number posted on the door and he’ll happily open the heavy wooden gate to let you step into Hektorović’s timeless world.

The Stari Grad Museum is housed in a former palazzo just steps from the Tvrdalj in the town’s historic centre. As you might expect, it is dedicated to the cultural and historical heritage of the town, Hvar, and Dalmatia.

While small, the museum has been beautifully curated and its collections, which cover a wide range of topics, including archaeology, history, ethnography, and natural history, offer a brief but powerful overview of Hvar’s many layers of civilization. Exhibits include artefacts from the Greek and Roman periods, as well as exhibits on the history of the town and island during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Some of the highlights of the museum's collections include a collection of Roman glassware, pottery, and mosaics, as well as a collection of ancient coins. But the museum also features modern and contemporary artists who were born or grew up in Paiz, as locals call the town. . We are particularly fond of the works of Juraj Plančić (1899-1930), an Impressionist painter who studied in Paris, but died too young of tuberculosis, and of the gifted illustrator and cartoonist Magda Dulčić (1965-2016).

After perusing Tvrdalj and the museum, the most prominent and notable church in one of the oldest towns in Europe is just a short stroll away through the town’s cobbled alleyways. St. Stephen’s Church, or Sveti Stjepan as it’s known locally, was once Hvar Island’s first cathedral. The building, and square surrounding it, were once the most important public spaces on the island, where sentences were passed and agreements were made.

St. Stephen’s complex history begins in the 9th or 10th century when it was originally constructed, where it served as the cathedral for the bishop of Hvar from 1147 until 1278, when the island placed itself under the protection of the Venetian Republic and the diocese was moved to Hvar Town. The church was heavily damaged during the Ottoman raids in 1571 and was subsequently demolished and rebuilt in the early 1600s, with the construction of the adjacent freestanding bell tower completed in 1753.

Both the architecture and the interior are impressive, and well worth a visit while you’re in Stari Grad. Our tip is to go the hour before sunset, the light is magical and makes for the best photos.

For us, there is only one place in Stari Grad to fill your picnic basket with snacks and your suitcase for the folks back home. Za Pod Zub is a gourmet store run by a lovely French couple, Chloe and Yvan, and has a delightful selection of small-batch products from Hvar and Croatia.

They seek out and support local growers, farmers, winemakers, butchers and cheesemongers who dedicate themselves to producing quality products. You’ll find meats, cheeses, chocolate, marmalades and honeys, truffle products, olive oils, craft beers and wines – alongside some truly beautiful non-food products such as ceramics and chopping boards from local artisans.

In 2024, Za Pod Zub celebrated its tenth anniversary by opening its new wine room, an extension at the back of the store, which has allowed them to expand their product collection even further.

The shop is located on the small cobbled street of Srinjo Kola, which translates to Middle Street, in the walkable centre of Stari Grad. Stop by, you won’t regret it.

On the same street you will find Blue Agava Boutique, home to an eclectic and genuinely impressive selection of jewellery by local and international designers. Srinjo Kola might well be the most colourful street in Stari Grad. Next to Blue Agava you can browse Hag Made, a small shop offering handmade natural cosmetics and souvenirs. Despite the name, the “witch” behind the counter is friendly and focuses her talents on creating perfumes and creams rather than casting spells.

Stari Grad is full of small shops like these, each tucked into narrow lanes and offering handmade jewellery, artwork or edible gifts. One with a particularly memorable name is Croativity, located in a quiet side street behind Blue Doors restaurant. You are likely to be greeted by Grazia, the owner, who handpicks every item in the shop, from handmade soaps to wooden jigsaw puzzles featuring Croatian motifs.

Another worthwhile stop is Fantazam, the art studio of local artist Zoran Tadić. Here he transforms natural animal remains into creative sculptural pieces that look as if they belong in science fiction or video games. The concept may sound unusual, but Zoran’s work is remarkably imaginative, and he is excellent with children. Young visitors often leave fascinated after seeing tiger teeth, fossils, elephant tail hair or even a dolphin skull. On second thought, it may be for the best that Hag Made and Fantazam are not neighbours.

Stari Grad feels a world away from the raucousness of Hvar Town, yet it never feels sleepy. In fact, for visitors whose days of late night revelry are mostly in the past, or who just want a mellower change of pace, this quieter town delivers the perfect balance. Evenings here move at an easier pace: relaxed dinners on lantern-lit squares, wine bars with live guitar or jazz, and waterfront cafés that stay open late without the need for thumping bass.

Our favourite bar is Lampedusa, which sits right on the Riva overlooking the harbour, and in our opinion, serves the best cocktails on the island. The owner, Marko, is an international award-winning mixologist. You can’t go wrong with any of the cocktails on the menu. Our favourites are the fig negroni and, of course, the espresso martini. Bring cash here because Lampedusa doesn’t accept cards.

One of the newer, more contemporary spots in Stari Grad for an evening drink is Lukrecija. This small bar and concept store is tucked into the street leading towards St Stephen’s Cathedral, the town’s main church. Open during the day as well, it benefits from the natural shade cast by surrounding stone houses, making it a pleasant place to stop for a glass of local wine or a regional spirit.

If you’re coming to Stari Grad, you must visit the stunning UNESCO world heritage site Stari Grad Plain, one of the oldest agricultural landscapes in the world. Take a laid back bike ride through the fields east of Stari Grad, admiring the beautiful vineyards, olive groves, and fruit orchards. This entire landscape looks almost exactly as it did 2,400 years ago when Greeks from the island of Paros colonised the island and divided the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) into huge estates.

What does 2,400 years of history actually taste like? The answer can be found in a farm-to-table supper served right in the heart of the Plain: wooden tables set among the vines, seasonal dishes prepared with produce picked that afternoon, and superb local wines poured under the stars. It is one of those simple, unforgettable Hvar evenings.

Stari Grad Bay is an incredible place to sail, owing to its deep harbour and ideal wind that make it the perfect bait for all lovers of sea and sailing. This passionate community of sailors maintain the old wooden sailboats that you will see lining the coast that have mostly been displaced by fibreglass throughout the Adriatic. You can see these beautiful boats in action every summer during the Days in the Bay event held in Stari Grad each fall.

This popular sport has for years been nurtured in the town by Helios Yacht Club. Led by local siblings Petra and Bartul Plenković, this small sailing school has skilled and dedicated instructors for kids and adults alike, with the aim of keeping the tradition of sailing alive for future generations.

Every year at the end of August or the start of September, the town hosts the Faros Marathon, one of the most challenging and prestigious open water swimming competitions in the world. It was created by Vicko Šoljan and has since attracted swimmers from all over the world. The race covers a distance of 16 kilometres (10 miles) and takes swimmers from the town of Stari Grad to the Faros Lighthouse and back, along the beautiful coastline of the island of Hvar.

The competition is open to both amateur and professional swimmers, who must be able to complete the race within a certain time limit. Swimmers are supported by boats and kayaks throughout the race, and are provided with food and drinks at designated stations.

The island has also attracted a deep and diverse community of mindfulness practitioners, offering experiences from yoga to sound healing and Reiki to massage. Suncokret Yoga has been recognised by The Guardian as one of the world’s best yoga retreats, situated in the nearby village of Dol.

The Pharomatiq Spa of Maslina Resort in Stari Grad offers a deep immersion in luxurious self-care.

For Hvar Away villa guests, our collection of wellness-based Experiences draws on our network of holistic therapists and specialists to provide in-villa treatments to help restore balance.

If you visit Hvar and don’t swim at least once a day, you’re missing the island’s clearest gift: water so clean and calm it resets everything. Stari Grad makes it effortless; small pebble coves and concrete bathing platforms line both sides of the harbour, most within a 5-10 minute walk from anywhere in the historic centre.

While there are plenty of spots to sprawl and soak up the sun within a few minutes of Stari Grad, a little extra exploration can offer some major rewards. Check our complete guide to Hvar Island’s best beaches.

A quick note: Croatia has no private beaches. Every metre of coastline belongs to everyone. Even the sun-lounger areas in front of hotels are open to the public; you simply pay if you want to use their facilities. Bring a towel, find a spot and the sea is yours.

On the northern side of Stari Grad bay (the right-hand shore as you face the open sea from the horseshoe centre of town), a string of small coves unfolds within easy reach. Here are the four worth knowing, listed in the order you meet them when walking or cycling westwards from town.

On the other side of Stari Grad, you can follow the waterfront promenade along the historic core, past the sailboats and yachts, and you will quickly reach the following beaches:

Beaches farther along both sides of the Stari Grad bay are reachable by car (some only with a 4x4), but the far better way is by boat. Renting a motorboat from Stari Grad harbour is straightforward and turns a simple beach trip into a proper mini-adventure. Here are three stand-out spots you shouldn’t miss:

No visit to Stari Grad is complete without a first-rate seafood dinner. Dalmatian cuisine prepares fish simply – with just olive oil and a garnish of garlic, lemon, and parsley – to let the incredible flavour and texture shine through. Don’t expect to find maple-glazed salmon or tuna with mango salsa here.

For truly local, wild-caught fish, head over to Kod Barba Luke. Long a standby of the in-the-know sailboat and yachting crew, Kod Barba Luke is the place for anything from the sea. Unfortunately, many other restaurants, even high-end ones, import their fish from distant waters.

Antika is in the heart of the town’s growing funky scene, with tables lining the cobbled streets and the charming atmosphere matched only by the exceptional food. We especially recommend the truffle pasta and the desserts. Say hello to Vince, the man running the show, who never stops wearing a smile.

Jurin Podrum is tucked down a nearby quiet lane in the old town. This family-run konoba feels exactly like stepping into a Dalmatian grandmother’s kitchen for Sunday lunch. The menu stays true to island tradition, and the standout dish remains wild boar slow-cooked with rosemary and “prošek”, the local sweet dessert wine that gives the sauce its rich, unmistakable depth.

One of the most popular restaurants in Stari Grad, and for good reason, is Blue Doors. Run by two brothers, Tadi and Igor, the restaurant focuses on fresh fish and well-executed meat dishes. It is also one of the few places on Hvar where you can find duck breast on the menu, while their signature starter, Trokutići (crispy triangles), has long been a favourite with locals.

A Stari Grad legend and the first restaurant on the main square, Kod Damira. Run by two brothers, Tadi and Igor, the restaurant focuses on fresh fish and well-executed meat dishes. It is also one of the few places on Hvar where you can find duck breast on the menu, while their signature starter, Trokutići (crispy triangles), has long been a favourite with locals.

A Stari Grad legend and the first restaurant on the main square, Kod Damira is a must if you are looking for affordable and traditional Dalmatian fare. We recommend the daily “marenda” dishes. Traditionally in coastal Croatia, a light meal is eaten between breakfast and lunch, the Dalmatian brunch known as “marenda”. Marenda to Dalmatians is what five o'clock tea is to the English; not simply just satisfying a need for food, but a time for closeness and conversation among friends. Come here for traditional Dalmatian pašticada (beef slow-braised in wine and prunes with handmade gnocchi), hearty fažol (bean and sausage stew) or, if you’re feeling bold, tender beef tongue in caper sauce.

Croatia runs on coffee and conversation, and Stari Grad shows it best. When the sun is out, every terrace on the main square and along the Riva fills with locals of all ages. Grandmothers share tables with toddlers, fishermen trade stories with teenagers, and everyone nurses a single “kava” for as long as the chat lasts. In Croatia the answer to what could possibly be more important than catching up with friends and family is simple: “bome ništa”, absolutely nothing. Pull up a chair and join them.

Coffee Kojo is a favourite stop for homemade cakes, fresh sandwiches, artisan coffee and freshly pressed juices. The story behind it is just as appealing: Kojo is a passion project of a Croatian mother and son who returned from Germany to Croatia with a simple goal of serving excellent coffee on what they believe is the best island of all.

Melting Spot on the harbourfront is a bright, easy-going café with an international edge. Expect properly made craft coffees, from flat whites to cold brew, plus excellent pastries and a sunny terrace that draws a cheerful morning crowd.

Fredy’s roasts South American beans on site and offers a modern breakfast line-up that hits the spot: crisp waffles, avocado on sourdough, loaded sandwiches and smoothie bowls. The coffee is strong and smooth, the vibe laid-back and welcoming.

Skip the ordinary gelaterias lining the start of the Riva and keep walking a little farther to aRoma. The scoops are generous, the gelato is genuinely artisanal, and the flavour list runs from classics to inventive specials you won’t find anywhere else. One taste and you’ll understand why even locals queue here.

Stari Grad may be the oldest town in Croatia, yet its places to stay feel anything but stuck in the past. Resorts put the town high on the map of hotel guests, but they don’t overshadow restored stone houses, boutique properties, and private villas that offer a more soulful approach to accommodation that feels in perfect alignment with the town’s cobbled streets and quiet bays.

Whether you plan a week of sea swimming and sun-soaked strolls, or a longer stay to switch off completely, Stari Grad has the right base waiting.

Stari Grad keeps its hotel scene deliberately small and selective: modest in quantity, but rich in quality.

Widely regarded as the finest luxury hotel on Hvar Island, Maslina is a five-star Relais & Châteaux property occupying a quiet bay just outside town. Surrounded by pines and centuries-old olive groves, Maslina delivers relaxed, contemporary luxury with natural materials, a muted palette that reflects the landscape, and its exceptional Pharomatiq Spa that draws on local herbs and botanicals. Service is attentive yet unobtrusive, and the overall feeling is one of refined calm.

Set in pine-shaded grounds beneath Glavica hill (the one topped by the white cross that also makes an easy family hike), this Valamar Places Hotel lies only a short walk from the centre. Spacious rooms open onto sea-view balconies, interiors follow a fresh coastal style, and the pool terrace looks straight out over the bay. It works equally well for couples and families seeking comfortable, up-to-date accommodation without the formality of a full resort.

Next to Valamar Places Hotel is Croatia’s first family resort developed in line with sustainable design principles: Valamar Amicor Resort. Set within a carefully preserved natural landscape, its contemporary villas, some with private pools, are designed to sit gently among the pines and Mediterranean greenery. The resort holds the DGNB international sustainability certification, making it the first of its kind in Croatia, and sets the tone for the more nature-focused, relaxed style of accommodation you will also find around Stari Grad.

Hotel Apolon is a small, family-run hotel set directly by the sea in Stari Grad, offering a calm, intimate stay with uninterrupted views across the bay. Its appeal lies in simplicity done well: comfortable rooms, a waterfront terrace, and an atmosphere that feels personal rather than polished. With the historic centre of Stari Grad just a short walk away, Apolon is a good choice for travellers who value location, tranquillity, and a relaxed, unfussy approach to island living.

Many visitors still opt for apartments or houses through Airbnb, drawn to the extra space and the chance to live more like a local for a week or two. Choices range from boutique one-bedroom suites inside the historic old town to more basic accommodation more commonly found on the northern side of the Stari Grad bay. Almost everything is within a comfortable walking distance of the main square and the nearest beach.

The catch is consistency. Quality swings wildly, hosts are often remote, and in July and August the people handling keys and check-ins can be stretched thin across dozens of properties. For guests who value consistency and reliable support throughout their stay, a professionally managed villa or a licensed hotel usually proves the safer and ultimately more relaxing choice.

Nothing matches renting a private villa on Hvar if you want to experience the island properly. You gain complete privacy, room for everyone to breathe, and the freedom to live on island time rather than hotel time. Mornings start with coffee on your own terrace instead of a buffet line, evenings end around a long table with your loved ones under the stars, and the town’s daily rhythm becomes part of your own.

Hvar Away curates a very select collection of villas in and around Stari Grad. The town is not blooming with luxurious villas in the centre, but Villa de Rosalia is a lone rose in the very centre of town designed for up to eight guests who want to disconnect from everything except the moment they are in. Wrapped in olive trees and cypress, the villa unfolds around a striking 15-metre pool, all with sweeping views over the Adriatic and the harbour town below. Stroll into town for morning coffee and a pastry, toast your fortune with an aperitif at a local café bar, and dine at one of the many excellent waterfront restaurants. You'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to simple summery pleasures.

For those in search of the highest level of luxurious villa, Pine View Bay is a peaceful seaside sanctuary close to Maslina Resort. It's set among pine trees, offering direct access to the water and uninterrupted views across a sheltered bay. Designed for relaxed island holidays, it combines privacy, generous outdoor spaces, and a calm natural setting, making it ideal for guests who want to rest from sleeping in a bathtub by the bed.

In case the quaint Stari Grad is still too busy for you, you can choose Selca, an almost abandoned village as the base for your holiday home. Just a 5-minute drive uphill from the town, you will find Villa Lapis, a contemporary, uber-panoramic home villa that gazes out over vast swathes of coastline. Lapis is designed for guests who appreciate clean architectural lines, with supreme privacy while only a very short drive from town.

Stari Grad remains one of those rare places that welcomes families, couples, and groups of friends with the same unhurried warmth. We hope this guide has made your time here feel within easy reach. Keep it bookmarked for quick reference whenever you need a beach, a restaurant, or simply a shady bench on the square.

If you would like help putting together the perfect Stari Grad stay, just reach out to us. We are always close by.

Stari Grad is on Hvar Island, not in Hvar Town. Many first-time visitors mix the two up. Hvar Town is the lively, glamour-soaked harbour town on the southwestern coast that fills most travel magazine covers. Hvar Island itself is a far larger place, a long, narrow landmass in southern Dalmatia roughly three times the size of Manhattan.

The town occupies the inner end of a deep, sheltered bay on the northwestern coast of Hvar Island. It is one of the Hvar’s three main settlements, alongside Hvar Town and the relaxed family favourite Jelsa.

The city of Split on Croatia’s mainland is the most used gateway to Hvar Island, and a popular destination in its own right. The city’s ferry port, bus terminal and train station sit side by side, only a short walk from the city’s historic core and waterfront. Split Airport lies a 30-minute drive northwest.

From the airport you can take the frequent shuttle bus (€8) or a taxi/Uber (€30-45) straight to the port, then board either the two-hour car ferry from Split to Stari Grad or one of the faster (55-minute) passenger catamarans. Read our complete guide on how to get to Hvar.

For anyone who prefers to step off the plane and be on the island with minimum fuss, a private transfer is the simplest solution. A driver meets you at arrivals, drives you to a nearby dock and a speedboat can take you directly to Stari Grad in roughly one hour. The cost is of course higher than public options, but the comfort is hard to beat after a long-haul flight, with young children, or when arrival times fall outside normal ferry schedules.

Hvar Away guests can leave the entire arrangement to their dedicated concierge. We will have everything ready the moment you land.

Reaching Stari Grad as a foot passenger is straightforward and inexpensive. Just book a ticket with the national carrier Jadrolinija from Split to Stari Grad. You will see ferries and catamarans offered, although in peak season Jadrolinija often replace the catamaran line with a car ferry. Catamarans are faster, taking only an hour, and they only transport pedestrians. Ferries take two hours, they are a lot bigger, and they carry vehicles as well as pedestrians. If you are prone to seasickness, the ferry may treat you better.

If you’re travelling without a car and want the quickest crossing, the best option might be to take a catamaran to a different port on Hvar Island. Hvar Town is serviced by numerous daily catamarans, whereas nearby Jelsa is also served by only one catamaran each afternoon. There are a number of providers, including Krilo, TP-Line, and the national carrier, Jadrolinija. Stari Grad is approximately a 15-minute taxi ride from Hvar Town, and 10 minutes from Jelsa.

In July and August catamarans often sell out and queues at the ticket window can stretch long, so book online a day ahead whenever possible. Arriving 10 minutes before departure is usually enough to board, but show up 30 minutes early if you want a prime seat as locals and regulars start lining up well in advance.

The ride is normally smooth and enjoyable. Cancellations for rough weather are rare in summer, but they do happen. All boats have toilets and a small bar serving coffee, cold drinks, and light snacks.

If you are renting a car on the mainland of Croatia or driving from elsewhere in Europe, you will need to take one of the several car ferries which connect Split with the port of Stari Grad each day, which costs around €40 per vehicle. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. Tickets should be booked well in advance, because the car ferries usually fill up. Plan to park your car in the ferry boat line at least an hour ahead of time as an additional precaution.

Once you arrive in the port of Stari Grad, the drive to the actual town is a breeze and very short.

If you’re driving from Dubrovnik or anywhere south of Split, the car ferry from Drvenik to Sućuraj can save serious time. The crossing is short, but the drive across the island to Stari Grad is winding and slow. Choose this route only if you enjoy exhilarating roads and want to avoid back-tracking north to Split. Otherwise, the standard Split–Stari Grad ferry remains the easier option.

Humans first settled Stari Grad five thousand years ago, drawn to its fertile plain, strategic lookout points, and deep bay. If you arrive in Stari Grad by boat, you will be following the watery traces of countless explorers, merchants, pirates, and fishermen. The bay is six nautical miles deep, accommodating even very large yachts. Hills on either side of the bay protect it from the strong southern and northern winds. Your biggest worry will just be finding a spot to tie up. Be sure to contact the Port Authority well in advance of your journey to avoid stress or disappointment.

Walking: The compact historic centre is eminently walkable with most major attractions within a 5-15 minute radius of the main square. Good shoes matter; the polished stone paving and cobbled lanes are beautiful but unforgiving on flimsy sandals.

Public transport: Local buses connect Stari Grad to the other island towns of Jelsa, Hvar Town, and Vrboska. Tickets cost €3-€5 one-way and are bought from the driver or kiosk at the bus station.

Taxis: Easy to find by the taxi station at the town’s centre. Be sure to agree to a price before settling in.

Water taxis: Plentiful and useful for short hops to coves of the Stari Grad Bay or late-night returns from beach clubs.