Stari Grad – The 2024 travel guide

If you’re lucky enough that life is leading you to Stari Grad, start by orienting yourself to the island of Hvar. People often confuse the town of Hvar with the island of Hvar. Hvar Town (“Grad Hvar” in Croatian) is a world-famous destination for upscale hedonism on the island’s southwestern coast. Hvar Island is a landmass in the southern Dalmatian archipelago that is three times the size of Manhattan.

Stari Grad is at the end of a large bay on the northwestern corner of Hvar Island. It is one of the three larger towns on the island: the other two being Hvar Town and Jelsa, a quietly elegant summer retreat for families.

The nearest major city to the island of Hvar is Split, itself a major tourist attraction. Split has an airport, rail and bus stations, and a ferry port, all serving numerous regional and international destinations. Rail, bus, and ferry are within a stone’s throw of each other, near the city’s historic core.

Split Airport is thirty minutes outside of town. Those arriving at Split Airport can grab a ride on the inexpensive public bus or hail a reasonably priced Uber to the ferry port. From there, they will take a ferry or catamaran to the port of Stari Grad or another port on the island of Hvar. Read our full guide on how to get to Hvar.

For those who can’t be doing with the additional to-ing and fro-ing, private transfers are available. This usually involves a driver meeting you at Split Airport to drive you to the ferry port, followed by a speedboat directly to Stari Grad Harbour. Private transfers are of course more expensive than public catamarans, but can be well worth it in certain situations. For example, we advise families coming directly to Hvar from the USA or Australia to hire a private transfer, because most will have already endured a long overnight flight to Croatia. The additional transit time spent getting to Split central, waiting for the ferry or catamaran, and then taking the boat ride over to the island can be too much, especially for children, and set a wonderful holiday off on the wrong foot.

It can also make sense to hire a private transfer if one’s flight arrives very late or early to Split and would otherwise mandate a hotel room. With a private boat, you can be in Stari Grad in an hour, rather than overpaying for a hotel and meals in Split, then going through another round of transit the following day.

Of course, if you are a Hvar Away guest, making arrangements for your private transfer(s) will be taken care of by our dedicated team member assigned as your concierge.

Getting to Stari Grad as a pedestrian is easy and inexpensive. Just book a ticket with the state-supported boat transit giant Jadrolinija to the port of Stari Grad. From there, it’s a twenty-minute walk or a short taxi ride to your lodgings.

You will see ferries and catamarans offered, although in peak season Jadrolinija often replace the catamaran line with a car ferry. Catamarans are faster, taking only an hour, and they only transport pedestrians. Ferries take two hours, they are a lot bigger, and they carry vehicles as well as pedestrians. If you are prone to seasickness, the ferry may treat you better. In good weather, you hardly feel the movement of the boat, if at all. Both catamarans and ferries have cafes with snacks and beverages, as well as (rather stinky) bathrooms.

Catamarans sometimes sell out in July and August and ticket lines can be long, so it never hurts to buy your ticket online a day in advance. Board your catamaran a half hour before departure to grab a good seat. Catamarans always have restrooms and canteens with snacks, espresso drinks, and beverages.

You might find that, because of when your plane lands, you need to take a catamaran to a different port on island Hvar. Jelsa and Hvar Town are serviced by numerous daily catamarans. Just be prepared for a pricey transfer to reach Stari Grad. The journey from Hvar Town takes thirty minutes and costs around €60, and from Jelsa is only fifteen minutes, and costs about half that.

The one port you should probably avoid is Sućuraj. It’s a lovely little town, but getting from there to Stari Grad by car takes an hour to an hour and a half down a nerve-jolting road, which sometimes narrows to a single lane with unprotected drop-offs. Of course, if adrenaline driving is your thing, then you now know where to go.

If you are renting a car on the mainland of Croatia or driving from elsewhere in Europe, then you will need to take one of the several ferries which connect Split with the port of Stari Grad each day, which costs around €50 per vehicle. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. As mentioned above, catamarans only carry passengers, not cars. Once you arrive in the port of Stari Grad, the drive to the actual town is a breeze and very short.

Alternatively, if you are driving from Dubrovnik or other points south of Split, it can make sense to take the ferry which goes from Drvenik to Sućuraj, on the eastern tip of island Hvar. You will have an adventurous drive, but can save considerable time compared to coming up to Split, waiting for the ferry, and then taking the two-hour trip.

In general, it is wise to book car ferry tickets a few days in advance, and to park your car in the waiting queue for the boat an hour early, because these spots do routinely sell out in the summer.

Humans first settled Stari Grad five thousand years ago, drawn to its fertile plain, strategic lookout points, and deep bay. If you arrive in Stari Grad by boat, you will be following the watery traces of countless explorers, merchants, pirates, and fishermen. The bay is six nautical miles deep, accommodating even very large yachts. Hills on either side of the bay protect it from the strong southern and northern winds. Your biggest worry will just be finding a spot to tie up. Be sure to contact the Port Authority well in advance of your journey to avoid stress or disappointment.

If you are not swimming at least once a day during your time on Hvar, you are missing out on the Adriatic’s remarkable health benefits and, more importantly, its immense tranquillity. Fortunately, Stari Grad is ringed by excellent little beaches, so a quick dip is never more than a few minutes away.

As an explanatory note, there is no such thing as a private beach in Croatia. Beaches are considered a shared gift from nature, property of no one. “Hotel beaches” are therefore always open to the public, although their amenities may not be.

On the northern side of the bay – to your right if you are standing facing the water at the centre of Stari Grad – there are four beaches to mention. Here they are, from closest to farthest:

1. Bonj – this shallow pebble beach sits between a charming pizza shop and a terrific water park. There is also a cafe and a higher-end restaurant, Eremitaž, in this little shoulder of Stari Grad Bay. As you can tell, it’s a perfect place for kids to spend the day – or the summer.

2. Helios – this beach is located below the sprawling Valamar resort complex. Music, loungers, and trendy drinks are all at hand, as is ample parking if you’ve chosen to arrive by car.

3. Kupališta Stari Grad and Paklina Beach – the crowds start to thin out at the next beach, and dwindle to a half dozen families by the time you reach Paklina, which has a great natural diving board. There is no “best beach,” because people’s needs are so different, but Paklina is one of our favourites within walking distance of Stari Grad.

4. If you’ve ever felt encumbered by society’s expectations to wear swimsuits, then press onward, intrepid nudist – an FKK beach awaits you just around the corner.

Follow the waterfront promenade along the historic core of Stari Grad, past the sailboats and yachts, and you will quickly reach the following beaches:

1. Lanterna – this is a series of beaches rather than a single spot. All are serviced by an irresistibly mellow little beach cafe and a small restroom.

2. Maslinica – now dominated by the pavilion, kitchen garden, and loungers of the uber-luxury Maslina Resort, Maslinica continues to be an ideal beach for young children, with warm, shallow water and – would you believe it – sand! There is a partially shaded dirt road here that leads towards the island’s interior and can provide a nice diversion or nature walk in between games and relaxation by the water. Note that the loungers are for Maslina Resort guests only.

3. Continue following the dirt footpath along the coast, and you will reach a slice of heaven called Uvala Ante. There is a small cluster of old villas here, now used as summer homes, and a path that leads all the way to the top of the island, past stone ruins and forgotten lavender fields.

Beaches farther down Stari Grad Bay can be reached by car, but it’s much easier and heaps more fun to get there on a boat. Here are two beaches not to miss:

One of the main attractions of Stari Grad is its well-preserved historic centre, which features narrow cobbled streets, stone houses, and ancient buildings such as St. Stephen's Church and Tvrdalj Fortress (see more below). The town's Riva, the name given to the island’s waterfronts, is a very popular spot for visitors, lined with al fresco bars and restaurants, charming souvenir stalls, and fishing boats. It’s the perfect place to stroll along just before sunset.

Stari Grad is also known for its cultural events, including the Stari Grad Summer Festival, which features music, theatre, and dance performances, as well as exhibitions of local art and handicrafts. The town is also home to several museums, including the Stari Grad Museum (see below), which displays artefacts from the town's ancient Greek and Roman past.

Just walking through Stari Grad’s historic core is a trip back in time. Underneath the cobblestone streets, there are mosaics dating back to the Roman era. In 2022, during excavations before the city began construction on sewage and water pipes, a much wider area of mosaics than had been unearthed a century ago was discovered.

“The mosaics are decorated with multicolour geometric and floral motifs and are of superior workmanship,” said Vilma Matulić, a conservator at the Stari Grad Museum, “We will have a better insight into the purpose of this luxurious building of the Roman Faria after the analysis and interpretation of archaeological finds and after merging all the plans of rooms with mosaic floors under surrounding houses, which were excavated in previous decades.” By comparison with similar mosaics and known workshop styles, they can be dated to the 2nd century.

Petar Hektorović (1487-1572) was a Croatian poet, writer, and humanist, best known for his famous work “Ribanje i Ribarsko Prigovaranje” (Fishing and Fishermen's Conversations), which is considered one of the most important works of Croatian literature from the Renaissance period.

Hektorović was born into a noble family and received a humanistic education, which he furthered during his travels throughout Italy. He was an important figure in the cultural life of the island of Hvar, where he served as governor and played a key role in the construction of the fortress on the island.

Fishing and Fishermen's Conversations is a pastoral poem in which Hektorović describes a fishing trip he took with his friends. Through their conversations, he explores themes of love, friendship, morality, and the natural world. The work is notable for its use of the Croatian language, which was still in its early stages of development at the time, and for its incorporation of elements of local dialects and folk traditions.

Hektorović's other works include poems, letters, and a travelogue describing his pilgrimage to the Holy Land. He is regarded as one of the most important figures in the development of Croatian literature and culture during the Renaissance.

You can visit the Tvrdalj (or Fortress in English) that Hektorović built in the 16th century. A fortified Renaissance castle, the Tvrdalj expresses a humanistic sensibility. In addition to practical necessities of a dangerous era – walls up to three metres thick – the Tvrdalj is also notable for its garden, which features a central pool, stocked with edible fish, and a large potager shaded by an extensive pergola. In addition, the structure is dotted with Petar’s maxims for a life full of virtue and enjoyment.

Hektorović himself lived in the Tvrdalj until his death in 1572, and the castle remained in his family's possession until the 19th century. Today, the Tvrdalj is open to visitors as a museum, with exhibits on Hektorović's life and work, as well as on the history and culture of Stari Grad and the island of Hvar, but local residents still live in the upper chambers of this historic building.

Entrance is inexpensive and the Tvrdalj is typically open from 10am to 1.30pm, and from 5pm to 8pm, in the summer months.

The Stari Grad Museum is housed in a former palazzo just steps from the Tvrdalj in Stari Grad’s historic centre. As you might expect, it is dedicated to the cultural and historical heritage of Stari Grad and the island of Hvar. While small, the museum has been beautifully curated and its collections, which cover a wide range of topics, including archaeology, history, ethnography, and natural history, offer a brief but powerful overview of Hvar’s many layers of civilization. Exhibits include artefacts from the Greek and Roman periods, as well as exhibits on the history of the town and island during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Some of the highlights of the museum's collections include a collection of Roman glassware, pottery, and mosaics, as well as a collection of ancient coins. But the museum also features modern and contemporary artists who were born or grew up in Stari Grad. We are particularly fond of the works of Juraj Plancic (1899-1930), an Impressionist painter who studied in Paris, but died too young of tuberculosis, and of the gifted illustrator and cartoonist Magda Dulčić (1965-2016).

After perusing Tvrdalj and the museum, Stari Grad’s most prominent and notable church is just a short stroll away through the town’s cobbled alleyways. St. Stephen’s Church, or Sveti Stjepan as it’s known locally, was once Hvar Island’s first cathedral. The building, and square surrounding it, were once the most important public spaces on the island, where sentences were passed and agreements were made.

St. Stephen’s complex history begins in the 9th or 10th century when it was originally constructed, where it served as the cathedral for the bishop of Hvar from 1147 until 1278, when the island placed itself under the protection of the Venetian Republic and the diocese was moved to Hvar Town. The church was heavily damaged during the Ottoman raids in 1571 and was subsequently demolished and rebuilt in the early 1600s, with the construction of the adjacent freestanding bell tower completed in 1753.

Both the architecture and the interior are impressive, and well worth a visit while you’re in Stari Grad. Our tip is to go the hour before sunset, the light is magical and makes for the best photos.

For us, there is only one place in Stari Grad to fill your picnic basket with snacks and your suitcase for the folks back home. Za Pod Zub is a gourmet store run by a lovely French couple, Chloe and Yvan, and has a delightful selection of small-batch products from Hvar and Croatia. They seek out and support local growers, farmers, winemakers, butchers and cheesemongers who dedicate themselves to producing quality products. You’ll find meats, cheeses, chocolate, marmalades and honeys, truffle products, olive oils, craft beers and wines – alongside some truly beautiful non-food products such as ceramics and chopping boards from local artisans.

In 2024, Za Pod Zub celebrated its tenth anniversary by opening its new wine room, an extension at the back of the store, which has allowed them to expand their product collection even further.

The shop is located on the small cobbled street of Srinjo Kola, which translates to Middle Street, in the walkable centre of Stari Grad. Stop by, you won’t regret it.

Stari Grad feels a world away from the raucousness of Hvar Town, but that isn’t to say you’ll be twiddling your thumbs each evening. In fact, for visitors whose days of late night revelry are mostly in the past – or who just want a mellower change of pace – Stari Grad strikes a great balance.

Our favourite bar is Lampedusa, which sits right on the Riva overlooking the harbour, and in our opinion, serves the best cocktails on the island. The owner, Marko, is an international award-winning mixologist. You can’t go wrong with any of the cocktails on the menu. Our favourites are the fig negroni and, of course, the espresso martini. Bring cash here because Lampedusa doesn’t accept cards.

If you’re coming to Stari Grad, you must visit the stunning Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest agricultural landscapes in the world. Take a laid back bike ride through the fields, admiring the beautiful vineyards, olive groves, and fruit orchards. This entire landscape looks almost exactly as it did 2,400 years ago when Greeks from the island of Paros colonised the island and divided the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) into huge estates. If you want to know what all of this history tastes like, get in touch with OPG Pina, which cultivates 100% organic, bee-friendly, and biodiverse vineyards and orchards.

Stari Grad is an incredible place to sail, owing to its deep harbour and ideal wind that make it the perfect bait for all lovers of sea and sailing. This passionate community of sailors maintain the old wooden sailboats that you will see lined along the harbour that have mostly been displaced by fibreglass throughout the Adriatic. You can see these beautiful boats in action every summer during the “Days in the Bay” event held in Stari Grad each fall.

This popular sport has for years been nurtured in the town by Helios Yacht Club. Led by local siblings Petra and Bartul Plenković, this small sailing school has skilled and dedicated instructors for kids and adults alike, with the aim of keeping the tradition of sailing alive for future generations.

Every year at the end of August or the start of September, Stari Grad hosts the "Faros Marathon," one of the most challenging and prestigious open water swimming competitions in the world. The race covers a distance of 16 kilometres (10 miles) and takes swimmers from the town of Stari Grad to the Faros Lighthouse and back, along the beautiful coastline of the island of Hvar.

The competition is open to both amateur and professional swimmers, who must be able to complete the race within a certain time limit. Swimmers are supported by boats and kayaks throughout the race, and are provided with food and drinks at designated stations.

The Faros Marathon in Stari Grad has been held annually since 1976, and has attracted swimmers from all over the world. The race is known for its stunning scenery, challenging conditions, and the strong sense of camaraderie and sportsmanship among the competitors.

The island has also attracted a deep and diverse community of mindfulness practitioners, offering experiences from yoga to sound healing and Reiki to massage. Suncokret Yoga has been recognised by The Guardian as one of the world’s best yoga retreats, situated in the nearby village of Dol.

The Pharomatiq Spa of Maslina Resort in Stari Grad offers a deep immersion in luxurious self-care.

For Hvar Away guests, our collection of wellness-based Experiences draws on our network of holistic therapists and specialists to provide in-villa treatments to help restore balance.

Savour Croatia’s legendary cafe culture. If the sun is shining, the terraces at every cafe in Stari Grad’s main square and along the Riva is full of people – men and women, from babies to salty old fishermen – sipping a “kava” and having a chat. What could possibly be more important than taking time out of your day to catch up with friends, family, and acquaintances – according to Croatians, “baš ništa” (absolutely nothing)!

For a more international vibe, Melting Spot serves up a wide selection of craft coffee drinks alongside yummy pastries and sunny conviviality. Fredys serves delicious South American coffee with a modern breakfast menu – think fresh waffles and sourdough sandwiches.

We recommend bypassing the myriad ice cream parlours on the first part of Stari Grad’s waterfront, and instead make your way a bit further down to aRoma. They serve large scoops of premium artisanal gelato with a huge selection of unique flavours. You won’t regret it!

No visit to Stari Grad is complete without a first-rate seafood dinner. Dalmatian cuisine prepares fish simply – with just olive oil and a garnish of garlic, lemon, and parsley – to let the incredible flavour and texture shine through. Don’t expect to find maple-glazed salmon or tuna with mango salsa here. For truly local, wild-caught fish – and it really is a different food – head over to Kod Barba Luke. Long a standby of the in-the-know sailboat and yachting crew, Kod Barba Luke is the place for anything from the sea. Unfortunately, many other restaurants, even high-end ones, import their fish from distant waters.

Antika is in the heart of Stari Grad’s growing funky scene, with tables lining the cobbled streets and the charming atmosphere matched only by the exceptional food. We especially recommend the truffle pasta and the desserts. Say hello to Vince, the man running the show, who never stops wearing a smile.

We only experienced Konoba Batana, a family-run restaurant tucked away in Stari Grad’s backstreets, for the first time just before the 2024 season – and were blown away by the quality of every appetiser, main, dessert, and drink. Shout out to the perfectly balanced homemade carob liqueur. A great choice for those seeking a memorable evening in Stari Grad.

A Stari Grad legend and the first restaurant on the main square, Kod Damira is a must if you are looking for affordable and traditional Dalmatian fare. We recommend the daily “marenda” dishes. Traditionally in coastal Croatia, a light meal is eaten between breakfast and lunch, the Dalmatian brunch known as “marenda”. Marenda to Dalmatians is what five o'clock tea is to the English; not simply just satisfying a need for food, but a time for closeness and conversation among friends.

Nook is perfect for vegans, vegetarians, and others who might be missing more “health food” style cuisine.

Where to stay in Stari Grad