Best beaches on Hvar – A 2024 guide to the island's best beach spots
You’re in Hvar to soak up the sun – lucky you! Hvar has incredible beaches. This journal will help you find the best spots for whatever you’re seeking: total tranquility, family fun, a party atmosphere, or something in between.
Hvar’s five beach regions
To make things simpler, we’ll divide the island into five regions: Northern Coast, Stari Grad Bay, Pakleni Archipelago, Southern Coast, and Far Eastern bays. There is nothing official about these divisions, but these regions tend to have consistent characteristics, so it’s helpful to group them together.
Far Eastern bays
The bays we are calling “Far Eastern” are those which are located between Zastražišće and Sućuraj. The northern coast offers a striking view of the Mosor mountain range, and the southern coast faces the imposing peak of Sveti Ilija on Pelješac. As you get closer to Sućuraj, the beaches become more crowded, because they are more accessible to that town and to the mainland just beyond, but they are never overrun. For a true “escape,” visit Mrtinovik cove on the southern coast, which has the excellent restaurant Gambo, or Mala Pogorila cove on the northern side.
Mala Pogorila Cove
Anything east of Poljica on island Hvar can be considered rural and remote. The modern road ends here, and an old, narrow one takes over. There are only a handful of restaurants, no grocery stores, and generally far fewer residents or tourists. This part of the island has some very good beaches, especially if solitude is what you’re after, but you’ll have to drive at least half an hour, and probably longer.
That is, unless you’re staying at La Villa Bleue, which is perched (quite literally) on the edge of Medvidina Bay, one of the Far Eastern bays on the south side of Hvar. Medvidina Bay comprises three adjacent beaches, each as pristine as the next. These beaches are open to visitors, but the winding gravel road down to the coast prevents most from attempting it. Only true secluded paradise seekers will reach this stunning bay.
La Villa Bleue
Northern Coast
The northern coast of Hvar Island east of Jelsa is studded with beautiful bays sheltered by steep, wooded cliffs. The water is especially clean on this side of the island because of how the ocean currents flow, and the northern orientation of these bays make them an ideal choice for those who are sensitive to sun. This whole stretch of coast facing the breathtaking Mosor mountain range is worth exploring, but here are just three of our favourites, from west to east:
- Grebišće. This soft sand beach is a dream for parents with small children. Like an enormous kiddie pool, the water stays shallow at Grebišće for the length of a football pitch if not farther. On the left side, there is a cabana with drinks and food. On the right side, there is a beautiful olive orchard. The beach itself is not that big, so it’s a good idea to arrive on the earlier side if you’d like to spread out. There is a paid parking lot that makes things easy for a small fee. On the tip of the right side is a charming cafe called Čorni Petar that could be a great escape for teens or parents.
Grebišće
- Vela Stiniva. The stuff that happy family memories are made of. Stroll past the shaded football pitch, small chapel, lush community garden, and crowded balota court on the pier to a little slice of heaven. Sparkling water between steep wooded cliffs make this a perfect place to spend the day or an entire summer. A laidback tavern on the water, Ser Zane, serves pizza and seafood should hunger strike, or pack a picnic.
Lunch at Ser Zane
- Pokrivenik. A nostalgic retreat from an indie movie, Pokrivenik consists of two sun-dappled coves, one dotted with old stone cottages, the other with a small hotel and pizzeria. You couldn’t ask for a better location for SUPs, kayaking, or just enjoying the peace and quiet.
Stari Grad bay
Stari Grad bay is sometimes overlooked by visitors to the island as a place to drive through on your way to and from the ferry port, but it is a very pleasant area to explore in its own right. By far, the best way to get around the bay is by a small boat. There are many small beaches to visit, but two are particularly worthy of note:
- Tiha Bay is a larger bay with several mini-inlets. Yachts like to anchor here, because it’s protected from most winds. There is a terrific restaurant called Veli Dolac - be sure to call ahead if you’re coming in the high season or want to eat the specialty, called peka, which must be cooked for several hours in advance. A few bays further down, you will find Tiha Lounge Bar, another fantastic no-frills family-run operation that serves simple but scrumptious Dalmatian cuisine. Local wines and cocktails can be enjoyed from shaded sunbeds and hidden hammocks, all within steps of the glistening Adriatic.
Veli Dolac restaurant
- Brusje beach is a quiet little gem – one of the locals’ best kept secrets. Backing up to a pretty olive orchard and vineyard, the beach has a nice swathe of shade, even in the middle of the day. There is also a great little tavern here that offers mussels, freshly caught fish, and other home-made treats.
Brusje beach
Pakleni Archipelago
For partygoers, Pakleni Islands opposite Hvar Town are the place to go. The archipelago has a series of beaches with lively cabanas, including the famous Carpe Diem, and an island called Jerolim, which is the most popular of several nudist beaches on Hvar. The best way to get to the Pakleni is by renting a boat, because you will probably want to visit several locations, but drop-off taxi services are available, or you can kayak there for a more active excursion.
The most developed part of the archipelago is around Palmižana beach. There is a pleasant marina here with a cute bodega, cafe, playground, and even showers for people touring Dalmatia by boat. In Palmižana, there is a highly regarded restaurant called Toto’s that serves first-rate fish and other traditional seafood-based dishes. You can also stroll through a botanical garden and an art gallery for a break from surf and sun.
Evening at Palmižana
Southern Coast
Hvar’s southern coast, usually referred to as the South Side, is one of its most spectacular features. This is prime vineyard terrain for those winemakers tenacious enough to take it on. Steep limestone cliffs provide the minerality that grapes love, plus long days of sunshine, which is reflected off both the sea and the rocks, boosts grapes’ intensity. In addition, this area has long been a favorite of fishermen and sailors, who transported goods between Hvar, Korčula, the mainland and farther afield destinations in the old days before large-scale shipping.
There is a lot to do and enjoy on this side of the island, which is more developed than the northern coast described above, but still very quaint and peaceful. We’ve provided some suggestions in our article about Ivan Dolac, an especially winsome town on this shore. Here are four beaches not to miss:
- Milna is one of the easiest beaches to get to on Hvar. It has a small handful of restaurants, a fun summertime atmosphere, and a quieter sister beach towards the east. It is also the start or end point of one of Hvar’s best hikes. Head into the island, towards the beautiful cliffs towering overhead. You’ll pass through a tunnel, and then you’re on your way towards the mysterious abandoned village of Malo Grablje. Keep walking up the canyon and you will find an ancient stone stairway up to Velo Grablje, the heart of Hvar’s historic lavender production. There are great spots for dinner or a drink all along this short trail, and the views from the top are worth the workout.
- Zaraće is a pair of gorgeous coves just east of Milna. It might be our favorite place to watch the sunset on Hvar – although with so many good options, the choice isn’t easy. On the right side as you face the sea, a long set of stairs descends to a pair of small, quiet beaches, encircled by limestone cliffs. As the sun sets, the whole “amphitheater” is tinged pink and a gentle breeze flows in from the west.
- The next cove eastwards from Zaraće is the famous Dubovica, which has attracted both locals and foreign tourists for decades. Once you reach the parking spot on the main road, you will need to follow the zig-zagging pathway by foot down to the beach itself – it’s best to avoid flip-flops for this steep walk down. Dubovica has very little shade and no umbrellas to rent, so make sure to bring your own. You will find a small local restaurant Konoba Dubovica on one side of the beach and Duba Beach Bar for fresh juices and cocktails on the other.
Dubovica beach
- Lučiśća is the stuff of beachy dreams. Travelling still further east, between Dubovica and the grape-growing village of Sveta Nedjelja, you will find this magical cove hidden beneath 500m-high cliffs on the island’s southern ridge. While the descent may be a bit challenging (think: bumpy and steep dirt road followed by a further 10-minute hike), it's definitely worth the effort. Of course, if you're arriving by sailboat, you'll avoid this problem altogether. Lučišća boasts crystal clear waters against a backdrop of thick pine forest and a nearby beach bar, but as with most bays on the South Side, remember to bring your umbrella and plan to arrive before the peak heat of the day.
Lučišča Beach
- Jagodna Beach is our final highlight on our tour of the South Side’s best beaches – but it’s certainly not the least deserving of your attention. Located about halfway between the seaside villages of Sveta Nedjelja and Ivan Dolac, this picturesque bay is a favourite among beachgoers. It is often celebrated as one of Hvar’s most beautiful spots (though the competition is fierce!) due to its exceptionally vibrant turquoise hue, shallow waters, and numerous mini beaches divided by natural rock formations. Depending on the tide, these formations create secluded pockets where visitors can claim their own slice of paradise.
Jagodna Beach
Other beachy tips
As elsewhere in Croatia, most of Hvar’s beaches have pebbles. Bring a pair of water shoes, and the pebbles won’t bother you. You might also appreciate having one of the folding beach cushions which are sold everywhere, including most supermarkets, although a beach towel is usually adequate to relax comfortably on the rocks.
The only things you might want to leave at home are your speakers and a cooler. People usually avail themselves of the ubiquitous cabanas and seaside restaurants rather than pack a full picnic, and beach-goers almost never blast tunes. Follow the local customs and you’ll avoid seagulls and dirty looks.
In terms of critters, Hvar is pretty safe, but if you’re barefoot, take care not to rest your foot on one of the spiky black balls you see beneath the water – these are sea urchins and will give you a nasty poke. Likewise, keep an eye out for snakes, boar, and dogs off leash.
Finally, bring your confidence! One of the many nice things about beaches in Croatia is that people of all ages and sizes enjoy them. It’s all about just enjoying the water, warm weather, and time with loved ones.
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