Best beaches on Hvar

To make things simpler, we’ll divide the island into five regions: Northern Coast, Stari Grad Bay, Pakleni Archipelago, Southern Coast, and Far Eastern bays. There is nothing official about these divisions, but these regions tend to have consistent characteristics, so it’s helpful to group them together.

The bays we are calling “Far Eastern” are those which are located between Zastražišće and Sućuraj. The northern coast offers a striking view of the Mosor mountain range, and the southern coast faces the imposing peak of Sveti Ilija on Pelješac. As you get closer to Sućuraj, the beaches become more crowded, because they are more accessible to that town and to the mainland just beyond, but they are never overrun. For a true “escape,” visit Mrtinovik cove on the southern coast, which has the excellent restaurant Gambo, or Mala Pogorila cove on the northern side.

Anything east of Poljica on island Hvar can be considered rural and remote. The modern road ends here, and an old, narrow one takes over. There are only a handful of restaurants, no grocery stores, and generally far fewer residents or tourists. This part of the island has some very good beaches, especially if solitude is what you’re after, but you’ll have to drive at least half an hour, and probably longer.

That is, unless you’re staying at La Villa Bleue, which is perched (quite literally) on the edge of Medvidina Bay, one of the Far Eastern bays on the south side of Hvar. Medvidina Bay comprises three adjacent beaches, each as pristine as the next. These beaches are open to visitors, but the winding gravel road down to the coast prevents most from attempting it. Only true secluded paradise seekers will reach this stunning bay.

The northern coast of Hvar Island east of Jelsa is studded with beautiful bays sheltered by steep, wooded cliffs. The water is especially clean on this side of the island because of how the ocean currents flow, and the northern orientation of these bays make them an ideal choice for those who are sensitive to sun. This whole stretch of coast facing the breathtaking Mosor mountain range is worth exploring, but here are just three of our favourites, from west to east:

Stari Grad bay is sometimes overlooked by visitors to the island as a place to drive through on your way to and from the ferry port, but it is a very pleasant area to explore in its own right. By far, the best way to get around the bay is by a small boat. There are many small beaches to visit, but two are particularly worthy of note:

For partygoers, Pakleni Islands opposite Hvar Town are the place to go. The archipelago has a series of beaches with lively cabanas, including the famous Carpe Diem, and an island called Jerolim, which is the most popular of several nudist beaches on Hvar. The best way to get to the Pakleni is by renting a boat, because you will probably want to visit several locations, but drop-off taxi services are available, or you can kayak there for a more active excursion.

The most developed part of the archipelago is around Palmižana beach. There is a pleasant marina here with a cute bodega, cafe, playground, and even showers for people touring Dalmatia by boat. In Palmižana, there is a highly regarded restaurant called Toto’s that serves first-rate fish and other traditional seafood-based dishes. You can also stroll through a botanical garden and an art gallery for a break from surf and sun.

Hvar’s southern coast, usually referred to as the South Side, is one of its most spectacular features. This is prime vineyard terrain for those winemakers tenacious enough to take it on. Steep limestone cliffs provide the minerality that grapes love, plus long days of sunshine, which is reflected off both the sea and the rocks, boosts grapes’ intensity. In addition, this area has long been a favorite of fishermen and sailors, who transported goods between Hvar, Korčula, the mainland and farther afield destinations in the old days before large-scale shipping.

There is a lot to do and enjoy on this side of the island, which is more developed than the northern coast described above, but still very quaint and peaceful. We’ve provided some suggestions in our article about Ivan Dolac, an especially winsome town on this shore. Here are four beaches not to miss:

As elsewhere in Croatia, most of Hvar’s beaches have pebbles. Bring a pair of water shoes, and the pebbles won’t bother you. You might also appreciate having one of the folding beach cushions which are sold everywhere, including most supermarkets, although a beach towel is usually adequate to relax comfortably on the rocks.

The only things you might want to leave at home are your speakers and a cooler. People usually avail themselves of the ubiquitous cabanas and seaside restaurants rather than pack a full picnic, and beach-goers almost never blast tunes. Follow the local customs and you’ll avoid seagulls and dirty looks.

In terms of critters, Hvar is pretty safe, but if you’re barefoot, take care not to rest your foot on one of the spiky black balls you see beneath the water – these are sea urchins and will give you a nasty poke. Likewise, keep an eye out for snakes, boar, and dogs off leash.

Finally, bring your confidence! One of the many nice things about beaches in Croatia is that people of all ages and sizes enjoy them. It’s all about just enjoying the water, warm weather, and time with loved ones.