Pitve

Pitve is, in our estimations, one of the most picturesque settlements on Hvar Island. We think it’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying here for your holiday. The hamlet offers panoramic views that extend from the distant island of Brač, across the majestic Biokovo mountains, over to the charming nearby town of Jelsa. Pitve itself sits among lush vineyards and olive groves that blanket the hillsides, and is known for its charming stone houses, typical of the Mediterranean, with small doors, windows, and protective wooden shutters. These houses are closely packed, creating narrow, labyrinthine streets that hide quaint inner courtyards.

As one of the oldest settlements on the island, Pitve is situated 168 metres above sea level and consists of two parts: Upper or Old Pitve and Nove or Lower or New Pitve. The older section dates back to Illyrian times, while the newer part was settled in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. Jelsa originally emerged as the port of Pitve, and was home to an impressive fleet of trading and passenger sailboats during the 19th century, and by its end, Jelsa had the biggest sailing fleet in central Dalmatia. Croatian-flagged schooners, brigs, and barques roamed the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, exported wine to France and Italy, transported goods to Black Sea ports bringing back grain and corn, and exported world-famous Brač stone across the globe. This new economy helped build Jelsa into one of the most prosperous municipalities in the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the time.

Though Pitve now has a modest population of about 50 residents, the village still hums with life, albeit more quietly than in the past. In the summer, the dominant sounds are the chirping of crickets, while in the winter, the wind still whistles through the empty stone-paved streets.

Before reaching the village of Pitve, first you must arrive on Hvar Island. Read our complete guide as to how to get to Hvar for some pointers.

Pitve is situated just 2 kilometres from Jelsa, the closest large town. Drive your rental car or take a 5-minute taxi ride – the road to Pitve is the first turn-off from the main road when heading eastwards from Jelsa.

If you are staying in Pitve, you’ll thank yourself for having access to a car instead of relying on taxis to get around. If you’re bringing a rental car from the mainland, you will begin your drive either from the east at Sućuraj or from the west in Stari Grad. From Stari Grad, the drive is pleasant, short, and unstressful. If you’re travelling from Dubrovnik, you may find yourself taking the ferry from Sućuraj, in which case you could say that the opposite is true for the first 40km of the drive, until one reaches the new road at village of Poljica, 15km away from Pitve. The old road has windy stretches with steep drop-offs that require opposing traffic to give way. If you are not used to driving in rural areas, our advice is to take your time, pull over to let others pass, and drive defensively.

As you make your way along this picturesque but somewhat alarming route, you may ask yourself: why don’t they build a better road here? In fact, plans are in the works to do so. The challenge for planners and residents is to find a compromise that serves existing communities at minimal cost to agricultural lands. In all likelihood, a solution will be reached, and a modern highway will run through this region in 5 to 10 years, bringing with it all the pluses and minuses of increased tourism traffic.

Pitve is a place for meaningful solitude and restorative quiet. Start your day with a meditative hike to the Church of St. James, situated on the slope between Upper and Lower Pitve, from where you can soak up magnificent panoramic views from the church courtyard.

For more experienced hikers and bikers, there is an old trail that snakes over the surrounding hills. Follow it to the Chapel of St. Anthony, a breathtaking vantage point with views extending over both the north and south sides of the island.

From there, it’s possible to continue down the trail to the seaside village of Zavala, where you will find numerous cafes and restaurants to replenish yourself after a full day of hiking.

In the afternoon, stroll over to The Viticulture Collection, a wine museum situated in the area between Upper and Lower Pitve. Having newly opened in 2023 and housed in a former elementary school building that closed in 1965, this museum celebrates and reveals Hvar’s storied winemaking history. It features an ethnographic collection that includes original vineyard tools, wine production and storage equipment, and traditional cookware. There are just a few exhibits, but the museum hosts are extremely knowledgeable and pleased to share the secrets of Hvar’s vineyards and the profound changes they have undergone over the centuries.

Entrance tickets cost €10 and include a small sample of wine.

Just because Pitve is not directly on the coastline does not mean you’ll have a hard time spending time on the beach. In fact, due to its midway position on the road that connects the north and south sides of the island, beaches on both sides of the island are pretty easy to get to from Pitve.

Zip down the valley to the beach for a mid-afternoon dip on one of the south side’s idyllic coves. There are plenty to choose from, including Ivan Dolac, Jagodna, Petarčica, Bojanic Bad, and Sveta Nedjelja.

To reach the island’s southern side, follow the road from Pitve further inland, and you will come to the Old Pitve Tunnel. Carved out by convicts and other conscripted labour in 1962, the 1.4km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside, just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side – not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you emerge from the tunnel, you will be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. But don’t get too carried away, and be sure that your brakes are in good order. A few steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore.

Beaches on the northern coast are even closer to Pitve, and offer tunnel-free access! Enjoy the pebble and rocky beaches surrounding nearby Jelsa, including well-facilitated Vitarnja Beach served by a beach bar – or head to Grebišće, one of the island’s rare sandy beaches.

And finally, if you’ve ever felt encumbered by society’s expectations to wear swimsuits, then press onward, intrepid nudist – an FKK beach awaits you in Vrboska, just a 10-minute drive away.

AFor more insights into Hvar’s gorgeous coves, read our guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

Spend the evening in Jelsa, just a 5-minute drive or taxi ride from Pitve. Bars, art galleries, an open-air cinema, excellent dining, farmer’s markets, a vast kids’ park, jogging paths, and a zillion gelato bars line Jelsa’s beautifully maintained riva, offering a buzzy change of pace to the tranquillity of Pitve. Stop by for a night out or a resupply. Parking is blissfully cheap and a gas station waits just outside of town along with two large, brand new grocery stores.

Pitve is home to only one restaurant, the gorgeous Konoba Dvor Duboković situated on a hilltop right in the heart of the village with sweeping views across vineyards stretching out across the Adriatic.

If you enjoy eating delicious homemade food in enchanting locations, then this konoba is definitely a must. Flourishing with vibrant flowers and rustic tables and chairs, Dvor Duboković is a charming family-run restaurant that embraces a homely, authentic charm. Just remember to call one day in advance to make a reservation.

Where to stay in Pitve