Basina

Basina, located in a protected cove with views of the island of Brač, is surrounded by dense pine forests, olive groves, vineyards, and lavender fields. Its crystal-clear waters are often teeming with shells and fish, much like the neighbouring waters of Mudri Dolac and Rosohotnica.

When you wander Basina’s pathways and hike its forested trails, it may feel like you’ve stepped back in time to a bygone era. So it might be surprising to learn that Basina's history does not stretch back to ancient times. In the 15th century, the shipbuilding villagers of Vrbanj sought a harbour for their fishing expansion and established the port of Vrboska. When Vrboska grew and separated from Vrbanj in the 19th century, the inhabitants turned to Basina for a new, safe harbour. The cove's wind-protected location soon made it a favourite retreat, leading wealthy ship owners and sailors to build summer homes there. Although few of the original summerhouses remain, the spirit of relaxed hedonism endures. Today, Basina is home to around 140 summer vacation houses.

Before reaching the bay of Basina, first you must arrive on Hvar Island. Read our complete guide as to how to get to Hvar for some pointers.

Basina is a short drive on smooth, asphalt road from three island towns: 4 kilometres from Vrboska, 6 kilometres to Jelsa, and 8 kilometres from Stari Grad. It really is quite wonderful to feel at such a distance from civilization while in reality being so close – never more than a few minutes’ away from any local conveniences and some of the island’s finest dining establishments.

The best thing to do in Basina is nothing at all – “fjaka” as the locals call it, which is something like a siesta, but may also include other forms of pleasurable laziness. Each morning, awake to the sound of crickets, the smell of the pine forest, and the view of the turquoise Adriatic… is there really a need to “do” anything?

Basina’s cove is surrounded mostly by large smooth rocks, but you can explore in either direction to find smaller pebble beaches and your perfect, pine-shaded spot. As you’re on the island’s north side, you are more sheltered here than on the south coast, which is ideal for kids (or adults!) who prefer to spend more time out of the sun.

Follow Basina’s shoreline northwards around the cove – if you’re looking out towards the sea from Basina, it’s the left side of the bay. The rocks quickly become a trail, which will take you approximately halfway to Mudri Dolac, the neighbouring bay, before becoming a smooth, paved path for the remainder of the short walk.

Like Basina Bay, Mudri Dolac has a small pebbled beach at its centre, with more rocky outposts as you walk further along the shoreline.

The third bay of this enchanting trio is Rosohotnica. Again accessible with a short walk from Basina – this time in the opposite direction around the shoreline – Rosohotnica is simply charming, with equally clear water and even larger flat rocks upon which to lay your towel.

Beaches further out from Basina can be reached by car (or by hike!), but it can also be a lot more fun to get there on a boat. Here are two beaches not to miss:

The next bay northwards of Mudri Dolac is Mirni Dolac, where the volume of any visitors you’re likely to encounter really starts to dwindle. A longer hike or a short drive from Basina, think of this as a half day outing, but this slice-of-heaven beach is a true escape.

Not to be confused with the equally lovely beach of the same name on the outskirts of Stari, this Maslinica Beach is closer to the town of Vrboska. It has a parking spot relatively nearby (for Hvar standards) and there are a few good berthing spots too if you’ve decided to come by sea. There is no “best beach,” because people’s needs are so different, but this is one of our favourites for peaceful solitude on the northern coast. Remember to bring snacks as there are no bars or cafes around.

Don’t miss our full guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

Once you’ve recharged your batteries at your lovely surrounding beaches, the region offers a number of day trips and excursions to keep you busy…

If you’re coming to Basina, you will inevitably pass through Stari Grad. And you cannot come to Stari Grad without visiting the stunning Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest agricultural landscapes in the world. Take a laid back bike ride through the fields, admiring the beautiful vineyards, olive groves, and fruit orchards. This entire landscape looks almost exactly as it did 2,400 years ago when Greeks from the island of Paros colonised the island and divided the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) into huge estates. If you want to know what all of this history tastes like, get in touch with OPG Pina, which cultivates 100% organic, bee-friendly, and biodiverse vineyards and orchards.

A lovely little village just 4 kilometres from the bay of Basina, Vrboska consists of a canal lined by stone houses and an intriguing fortress church. In spite of its diminutive size, it has a dive centre, an excellent marina for sailboats, and a windsurfing surfing school, as well as kayak, SUP, and canoe rentals. There are also tennis courts, volleyball, an elaborate water park, and even ping pong tables nearby.

Bars, art galleries, an open-air cinema, fine dining, farmer’s markets, a vast kid’s park, jogging paths, and a zillion gelato bars line Jelsa’s beautifully maintained riva, offering a buzzy change of pace to the tranquillity of Basina. Stop by for a night out or a resupply. Parking is blissfully cheap and easy, and a gas station waits just outside of town along with two large, brand new grocery stores.

There is really only one option for dining out in Basina itself, and that’s Kod Rusota. Fresh, kid-friendly, and authentic Dalmatian food served with a smile in a location that somehow manages to combine a traditional konoba with an American-style roadside diner.

For more dining options, you are somewhat spoiled for choice surrounded by the three gastronomic hubs of Vrboska, Jelsa, and Stari Grad, all just short drives away. Check each of our local guides for our restaurant recommendations in each.

Where to stay in Basina