Vrbanj – The 2024 travel guide

Archaeological finds demonstrate Vrbanj’s rich history dating back to the Roman period, including two oil presses and the remnants of a leisure villa. However, Vrbanj experienced its economic zenith in the late 14th and early 15th centuries, primarily due to its involvement in the shipping and shipbuilding industries, an unusual achievement given its inland location. By the 15th century, the villagers began to shift their focus towards the coast, engaging more in the fishing industry and establishing the settlement of "Vallis Varbagni," which eventually grew into the village of Vrboska.

A significant historical event tied to Vrbanj is the 1510-1514 rebellion led by Matija Ivanić, a notable figure from the village. This uprising, driven by the commoners' desire for equal participation in governance and an end to the nobles' oppressive rule, is considered a precursor to the French Revolution. Although the rebellion was ultimately unsuccessful, the villagers take great pride in their ancestors' courageous stand. In honour of these events, the "Home of Matija Ivanić" was established in the centre of Vrbanj to commemorate Matija and the Hvar rebels. In 2021, this building underwent a full renovation and now exists as a working kindergarten for local children, with the ground floor housing a memorial room of Matija Ivanić with a small ethnographic exhibition.

Today, Vrbanj is a small village with a population of fewer than 500 people, with agriculture still serving as the primary economic activity. Despite this small number of residents, Vrbanj's rich historical legacy continues to be a source of great pride.

If you’re lucky enough that life is leading you to Vrbanj, start by orienting yourself to the island of Hvar. People often confuse the town of Hvar with the island of Hvar. Hvar Town (“Grad Hvar” in Croatian) is a world-famous destination for upscale hedonism on the island’s southwestern coast. Hvar Island is a landmass in the southern Dalmatian archipelago that is three times the size of Manhattan. Read our complete guide as to how to get to Hvar for some pointers.

The closest ferry port to Vrbanj is Stari Grad. Getting to Stari Grad as a pedestrian is easy and inexpensive. Just book a ticket with the state-supported boat transit giant Jadrolinija to the port of Stari Grad. From there, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to Vrbanj.

You will see ferries and catamarans offered, although in peak season Jadrolinija often replace the catamaran line with a car ferry. Catamarans are faster, taking only an hour, and they only transport pedestrians. Ferries take two hours, they are a lot bigger, and they carry vehicles as well as pedestrians. If you are prone to seasickness, the ferry may treat you better. In good weather, you hardly feel the movement of the boat, if at all. Both catamarans and ferries have cafes with snacks and beverages, as well as (rather stinky) bathrooms.

Catamarans sometimes sell out in July and August and ticket lines can be long, so it never hurts to buy your ticket online a day in advance. Board your catamaran a half hour before departure to grab a good seat. Catamarans always have restrooms and canteens with snacks, espresso drinks, and beverages.

You might find that, because of when your plane lands, you need to take a catamaran to a different port on the island. Hvar Town and Jelsa are serviced by numerous daily catamarans. Just be prepared for a pricier transfer to reach Vrbanj from Hvar Town – the drive takes 30 minutes and costs around €80.

The one port you should probably avoid is Sućuraj. It’s a lovely little town, but getting from there to Vrbanj by car takes about an hour, half of which is along a nerve-jolting road, which sometimes narrows to a single lane with unprotected drop-offs. Of course, if adrenaline driving is your thing, then you now know where to go.

If you are renting a car on the mainland of Croatia or driving from elsewhere in Europe, then you will need to take one of the several ferries that connect Split with the port of Stari Grad each day, which costs around €50 per vehicle. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. As mentioned above, catamarans only carry passengers, not cars. Once you arrive in the port of Stari Grad, the drive to Vrbanj is a breeze and very short.

Alternatively, if you are driving from Dubrovnik or other points south of Split, it can make sense to take the ferry which goes from Drvenik to Sućuraj, on the eastern tip of island Hvar. You will have an adventurous drive, but can save considerable time compared to driving up to Split, waiting for the ferry, and then taking the two-hour trip.

In general, it is wise to book car ferry tickets a few days in advance, and to park your car in the waiting queue for the boat an hour early, because these spots do routinely sell out in the summer.

We love that this small village is home to one of the island’s best wineries. The setting at Plančić Brothers Winery is delightfully casual, but the wines are anything but. The Plančić brothers are true wine obsessives, deeply committed to the craft and capable of building phenomenal wines from the ground up. Established in 1919, Plančić uses only indigenous grape varieties from the island of Hvar, and their wines are interestingly different from the ubiquitous Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons that you may be so used to elsewhere.

The atmosphere is fantastically laidback. You will feel like you’ve just stopped by your friend’s back porch, who just happens to serve up home-cured olives and a flight of wildly inventive, consistently palate-pleasing wines.

You might be aware that a konoba is the Croatian word for a traditional tavern or small restaurant serving regional, traditional cuisine and wine. But there is a reason we have listed Konoba Bratanić as an experience to do in Vrbanj, not just as somewhere to eat and drink. Deep in the village of Vrbanj, Konoba Bratanić is not a restaurant, nor simply a wine tasting room, nor any other type of catering establishment. It is a place for storytelling, where the depths of past Mediterranean eras are brought to life.

The konoba was an essential part of each traditional Dalmatian stone house; the place where the wine was made and stored, where tools were kept when not out working in the fields, and where families and friends sat around a table of an evening to enjoy a glass or two with a shared song. Miki Bratanić, the passionate owner of Konoba Bratanić, not only maintains and operates this authentic konoba, but also expresses the spirit of konoba through his poetry and writings. He has even published a book, filled with poems, stories, and photographs, using local dialect to capture the region's previously harsh yet rewarding lifestyle, and the symbolism of the warm refuge of the konoba after a day's hard labour.

Preserving its original appearance and purpose, Konoba Bratanić showcases objects related to viticulture and winemaking, reflecting the economic backbone of Dalmatia for millennia. Recognised by the Ministry of Culture as a cultural asset in 2014, the konoba's collection includes 87 catalogued items including various wine presses, barrels, tools for vineyard and olive grove work, and containers for wine, prosecco, and brandy. While many traditional houses in Dalmatia have evolved over time, Konoba Bratanić remains a testament to the enduring cultural practices of the region, with most of the items still in current use today.

This one-of-a-kind experience can be booked with Hvar Away, offering an authentic evening in which you will taste not only fantastic wines, but the cultural essence of Hvar.

Just because Vrbanj is an inland village on Hvar does not mean you’ll have a hard time spending time on the beach. The closest beaches to Vrbanj are those surrounding the nearby towns of Vrboska and Jelsa on the island’s north coast, both of which are 5-10 minute drives away. Check out the dedicated beach sections in our guides to both towns.

Or, take a longer drive down the valley to the beach for a mid-afternoon dip on one of the south side’s idyllic coves. There are plenty to choose from, including Ivan Dolac, Jagodna, Petarčica, Bojanic Bad, and Sveta Nedjelja.

To reach the island’s southern side, follow the road from Vrbanj east further inland, passing through the village of Pitve until you come to the Old Pitve Tunnel. Carved out by convicts and other conscripted labour in 1962, the 1.4km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside, just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side – not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you emerge from the tunnel, you will be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. But don’t get too carried away, and be sure that your brakes are in good order. A few steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore. Drive along the coast road until you reach your beach of choice.

For more insights into Hvar’s gorgeous coves, read our guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

If you’re coming to Vrbanj, you will more than likely pass through Stari Grad. And you cannot come to Stari Grad without visiting the stunning Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest agricultural landscapes in the world. Take a laid back bike ride through the fields, admiring the beautiful vineyards, olive groves, and fruit orchards. This entire landscape looks almost exactly as it did 2,400 years ago when Greeks from the island of Paros colonised the island and divided the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) into huge estates. If you want to know what all of this history tastes like, get in touch with OPG Pina, which cultivates 100% organic, bee-friendly, and biodiverse vineyards and orchards.

Spend the evening in Jelsa, an easy 7-minute drive or taxi ride from Vrbanj. Bars, art galleries, an open-air cinema, fine dining, farmer’s markets, a vast kids’ park, jogging paths, and a zillion gelato bars line Jelsa’s beautifully maintained riva, offering a buzzy change of pace to the tranquillity of Vrbanj. Stop by for a night out or a resupply. Parking is blissfully cheap and easy, and a gas station waits just outside of town along with two large, brand new grocery stores.

Vrbanj is home to only one restaurant, the lovely Konoba Bogo positioned in the heart of the village with a gorgeous atmosphere on its leafy al fresco terrace.

Family-run Bogo is known across the island for its huge, fresh pizza – alongside other Dalmatian delights.

Where to stay in Vrbanj