Vrboska – The 2024 travel guide

Vrboska has a rich and storied history. In the 15th century, the residents of the island’s agricultural villages of Vrbanj, Svirče, Vrisnik, and Pitve recognised that the fishing industry was becoming increasingly lucrative. So they set out in search of locations to establish harbours in which they could settle. The people of Vrbanj discovered the long, narrow harbour of Vrboska – ideally sheltered from the winds and near to the fertile plains surrounding nearby Stari Grad. Although, it should be noted that the people of Vrbanj were not the first to discover Vrboska’s potential – the Romans had in fact been here throughout the 2nd and 6th centuries, leaving behind antique ceramics and villa ruins in their wake.

The fishermen settlers of Vrboska were successful, salting fish and selling it on to Venice and beyond. But the thriving new culture and settlement wasn’t born without strife. In the 16th century, the new residents of Vrboska split into two brotherhoods: one wanting to remain tied to Vrbanj and the other seeking autonomy for Vrboska. Fierce tensions between the two could be cut with a knife and culminated in 1614 when the daughter of a tireless local fisherman noticed tears being shed from a crucifix, a sign interpreted as a call for unity. The Crying Cross is still honoured and commemorated annually on the first Friday in March as a reminder of the importance of togetherness.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Vrboska thrived as an agricultural and fishing town with a bustling sardine factory, a wooden shipyard, and regular connections to Split and the island of Brač. The town boasted a hotel, several fishing groups, a cultural community centre, a medical clinic, and an oil works that processed all the olives from northern Dalmatia from 1910 to 1930.

Today, however, Vrboska operates very differently. Some say that the socialist economy greatly altered the trajectory of the town. The sardine factory is closed and fishing has dwindled, symbolised by the opening of the fishing museum in 1972. The oil works ceased to work, and while the shipyard remains, it no longer builds ships. Like many other settlements on Hvar, Vrboska has shifted towards tourism and hospitality – but without doubt, a quiet stroll through its streets will evoke a nostalgic remembrance of its more humble past.

If you’re lucky enough that life is leading you to Vrboska, start by orienting yourself to the island of Hvar. People often confuse the town of Hvar with the island of Hvar. Hvar Town (“Grad Hvar” in Croatian) is a world-famous destination for upscale hedonism on the island’s southwestern coast. Hvar Island is a landmass in the southern Dalmatian archipelago that is three times the size of Manhattan. Read our complete guide as to how to get to Hvar for some pointers.

The closest ferry port to Vrboska is Stari Grad. Getting to Stari Grad as a pedestrian is easy and inexpensive. Just book a ticket with the state-supported boat transit giant Jadrolinija to the port of Stari Grad. From there, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to Vrboska.

You will see ferries and catamarans offered, although in peak season Jadrolinija often replace the catamaran line with a car ferry. Catamarans are faster, taking only an hour, and they only transport pedestrians. Ferries take two hours, they are a lot bigger, and they carry vehicles as well as pedestrians. If you are prone to seasickness, the ferry may treat you better. In good weather, you hardly feel the movement of the boat, if at all. Both catamarans and ferries have cafes with snacks and beverages, as well as (rather stinky) bathrooms.

Catamarans sometimes sell out in July and August and ticket lines can be long, so it never hurts to buy your ticket online a day in advance. Board your catamaran a half hour before departure to grab a good seat. Catamarans always have restrooms and canteens with snacks, espresso drinks, and beverages.

You might find that, because of when your plane lands, you need to take a catamaran to a different port on the island. Hvar Town and Jelsa are serviced by numerous daily catamarans. Just be prepared for a pricier transfer to reach Vrboska from Hvar Town – the drive takes 30 minutes and costs around €80.

The one port you should probably avoid is Sućuraj. It’s a lovely little town, but getting from there to Vrboska by car takes about an hour, half of which is along a nerve-jolting road, which sometimes narrows to a single lane with unprotected drop-offs. Of course, if adrenaline driving is your thing, then you now know where to go.

If you are renting a car on the mainland of Croatia or driving from elsewhere in Europe, then you will need to take one of the several ferries that connect Split with the port of Stari Grad each day, which costs around €50 per vehicle. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. As mentioned above, catamarans only carry passengers, not cars. Once you arrive in the port of Stari Grad, the drive to Vrboska is a breeze and very short.

Alternatively, if you are driving from Dubrovnik or other points south of Split, it can make sense to take the ferry which goes from Drvenik to Sućuraj, on the eastern tip of island Hvar. You will have an adventurous drive, but can save considerable time compared to driving up to Split, waiting for the ferry, and then taking the two-hour trip.

In general, it is wise to book car ferry tickets a few days in advance, and to park your car in the waiting queue for the boat an hour early, because these spots do routinely sell out in the summer.

Hvar is an incredible place to sail. The history of boating is deep here – so deep that the oldest known depiction of a boat in Europe was found on island Hvar, in Grapčeva Cave near Humac. Not only is the island surrounded by fairly calm waters and deep harbours, but it is home to a passionate community of sailors who maintain the old wooden sailboats that have mostly been displaced by fibreglass throughout the Adriatic. You can see these beautiful boats in action every summer during the “Dance of the Sails” festival in Vrboska.

If you arrive in Vrboska by boat, you will be following the watery traces of countless explorers, merchants, pirates, and fishermen. The bay is long and narrow, reminiscent of a fjord, and accommodates yachts up to 35m. The marina is also deep, which protects it from the strong southern and northern winds. Your biggest worry will just be finding a spot to tie up. Be sure to contact the ACI Marina well in advance of your journey to avoid stress or disappointment.

Vrboska exudes charm with its ancient fishing and maritime roots, but a visit here goes beyond its rich history. This lovely village caters to both those seeking relaxation and those looking for more active experiences. Here are our recommendations.

It’s a rare person who comes to Hvar Island and doesn’t make a beeline for the nearest beach.

Certain beaches on the island are known to be “family beaches,” where children and their antics are welcome (and party-loving adults and their antics are not). Soline in Vrboska is a favourite. It has an impressive water playground that children will go wild for and a shady, wind-sheltered location that everyone will appreciate. Soline is serviced by ample parking, an irresistibly mellow little beach cafe bar, Beach Kafić, and Restaurant Soline for meals close by.

In fact, this rocky eastern outpost of Vrboska that starts at Soline is known as the Glavica Peninsula, and is ringed by several excellent little beaches. Walk about 500m on the pine-shaded path eastwards from Soline to reach Paklena Beach, where the crowds really start to thin out. Despite its name which translates to “hellish” in Croatian, Paklena Beach is a true slice of heaven with many small coves with flat stones to rest on surrounded by the Adriatic’s usual crystal clear waters.

If you’ve ever felt encumbered by society’s expectations to wear swimsuits, then press onward, intrepid nudist, with your exploration of the Glavica Peninsula. Balun Beach and Tusno Beach are both designated FKK (nudist beaches).

Vrboska also presents an opportunity for probably the easiest and quickest island hop! Take a water taxi from Soline out to Zečevo Island, which lies just one kilometre out from the Glavica Peninsula. There are many natural coves and beaches on the island, which all have in common spectacular panoramic views and turquoise waters. There’s also a beach bar with a large menu of cocktails and several shaded cabanas.

Back on the main Hvar Island, there are a few more beaches worthy of mention in the near vicinity of Vrboska. Not to be confused with the equally lovely beach of the same name on the outskirts of Stari Grad, Maslinica Beach is just a 3-minute drive north of Vrboska, or a 15-minute walk. It has a parking spot relatively nearby (for Hvar standards) and there are a few good berthing spots too if you’ve decided to come by sea. There is no “best beach,” because people’s needs are so different, but this is one of our favourites for peaceful solitude on the northern coast. Remember to bring snacks as there are no bars or cafes around.

Finally, Sandy Beach is one of the island’s rare sandy beaches and a dream for parents with small children. Like an enormous kiddie pool, the clear water stays shallow here for a long way. It’s a bit of a distance down the coastal path that connects Vrboska with Jelsa, about a 25 minute stroll – but if you’re staying in Vrboska with a bicycle or a car, it’s extremely easy to reach.

For more insights into Hvar’s gorgeous coves, read our guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

Any of Hvar’s seaside towns will offer plenty of opportunities to get in the water, but Vrboska is perhaps a surprise star for sport. In spite of its diminutive size, it has a dive centre, an excellent marina for sailboats, a windsurfing/kitesurfing school, as well as kayak, SUP, and jetski rentals. There are also tennis courts, volleyball, an elaborate water park, and even ping pong tables nearby.

Hvar Away guests can book their water sport Experiences in Vrboska with us, including windsurfing, wing foiling, and inflatable tugs.

One of Vrboska's main attractions is its well-preserved historic centre, characterised by narrow cobbled streets, pastel-coloured stone houses, and ancient buildings like the Fortress of St. Mary and the Church of St. Lawrence (see more below). The village’s Riva, the name given to the island’s waterfronts, is a popular spot for visitors, featuring al fresco bars and restaurants, charming souvenir stalls, and fishing boats. It’s the perfect place for a leisurely stroll just before sunset.

St. Mary's Fortress Church stands as a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of its people. Originally, a smaller church occupied this site, built by the early settlers of Vrboska. However, due to frequent Turkish and Venetian raids, the need for a fortified structure became evident. In 1571, following a devastating Turkish raid that burned Vrboska to the ground, the construction of the present church began, concluding in 1579.

The church, relatively small in size, is enclosed by thick limestone walls and topped with a defensive crown. Its façade is guarded by a pointed stone bastion with smooth, slated walls, designed for protection against invaders. Complementing the fortress church, an observation post called “Kaštilac” was erected on the northern side of the cove. This vantage point allowed for early detection of threats, using fire signals to warn the villagers, who could then seek refuge within the fortress church.

St. Mary's Fortress Church is not only a place of worship but also a fortification that played a crucial role in defending Vrboska from marauding pirates and Ottoman forces. The imposing structure, with its elegant bell tower visible from miles away, has stood the test of time and remains a popular attraction. The interior of the church is equally impressive, featuring intricate stonework, beautiful frescoes, and stunning marble sculptures.

Today, visitors can explore St. Mary's Fortress Church and delve into the rich history whilst soaking up the breathtaking views overlooking the town. Opening hours are from 10am to midday, and from 6pm to 8.30pm, with an entrance fee of €2 per person.

In the 16th century, the "rebels" advocating for Vrboska's autonomy constructed their own place of worship, the Church of St. Lawrence, just steps from the fortress. Originally smaller and narrower, the church was later expanded and now reflects the baroque style of the time. The Church of St. Lawrence houses invaluable art, some of which was relocated from the fortress church due to severe dampness issues there.

The Fishermen’s Museum in Vrboska was established more than 50 years ago, and is housed in a newly renovated building in the centre of the village on the northern side of the harbour. As you might expect, it is dedicated to the techniques of the fishing trade as well as the significant economic and social role that fishing has played on island Hvar over the centuries.

The artefacts, dating from the late 19th to early 20th century, highlight the significance of fishing and shipping in Dalmatia's historic economy, with collections illustrating traditional fishing techniques and the fishermen’s lifestyle, relevant not only to Hvar but the entire Adriatic. It includes tools for fishing small pelagic species, equipment for fishing with the "under lamplight" technique, various fishing nets and hooks, wooden barrels for preserving fish, and tools from Vrboska’s former sardine factory. Additionally, there are taxidermied specimens of Adriatic marine life and utensils from the traditional fisherman's cuisine.

It is open mornings 10am to noon, and evenings 6pm to 8pm in the summer.

To those in the know, Croatia has a delectable and varied wine scene, and it might be surprising to learn that little Vrboska has its own horse for that race. Stop by one evening at the Pinjata Winery. Tucked away behind St. Mary’s Fortress Church, local wine is produced and offered by the Gabelić family, who pair it with small bites of Dalmatian specialities. Call at least a day in advance for a bigger bite – Pinjata offers a delicious octopus peka.

If you’re coming to Vrboska, you will probably pass through Stari Grad. And you cannot come to Stari Grad without visiting the stunning Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest agricultural landscapes in the world. Take a laid back bike ride through the fields, admiring the beautiful vineyards, olive groves, and fruit orchards. This entire landscape looks almost exactly as it did 2,400 years ago when Greeks from the island of Paros colonised the island and divided the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) into huge estates. If you want to know what all of this history tastes like, get in touch with OPG Pina, which cultivates 100% organic, bee-friendly, and biodiverse vineyards and orchards.

Vrboska is very near to Bol on the island of Brač, another gorgeous, typically Dalmatian seaside town. Now a destination for summer escapes and home to the famous Golden Horn or “Zlatni Rat” Beach, the town was once a hub for export of the island’s excellent wine and prized limestone – used to build the White House in the USA and the Parliament Houses of Vienna and Budapest. Zip across to Jelsa where a daily catamaran runs directly to Bol, or take a private water taxi from Vrboska.

​​If there’s one thing you can’t miss when in Dalmatia, it’s the local cuisine. Nothing hits the spot quite like fish caught that day from the depths of the Adriatic, fresh salad from the vegetable garden, doused in local olive oil, all washed down with a glass of refreshing wine cultivated on the island. It’s a local saying that fish here must swim three times; first in the sea, then in oil, and then in wine.

There are plenty of delightful restaurants in Vrboska, so we will not try to review them all, but just to highlight a few standouts:

While Hvar Town has gained a reputation for being somewhat of a party town, wild events and drinking until the early hours are not so much the norm elsewhere on Hvar Island, particularly in peaceful little Vrboska. For visitors whose days of late night revelry are mostly in the past – or who just want a mellower change of pace – Vrboska is a great option for laidback evenings by the sea with a glass of wine (or three).

That being said, Vrboska is home to Luda Koka is a disco bar located on the main road as you enter Vrboska, about a 10-minute walk from the village’s main Riva. Translated as “Crazy Chicken”, Luda Koka is popular with younger visitors who can’t get enough of the affordable drinks, snooker tables, and events that last into the early hours. Open from 9pm to 4am each evening during summer, it’s the closest thing you’ll get to something a little “crazy” in Vrboska.

Where to stay in Vrboska