Sveta Nedjelja

Sveta Nedjelja, situated on Hvar’s sunniest south side, is one of the island's most picturesque villages. Sitting directly underneath Sveta Nikola, the island’s highest peak (626m), it offers breathtaking views stretching out over the Adriatic Sea and the surrounding landscape, and its position makes it a perfect spot to watch the sunset. The village boasts several beautiful pebble beaches and secluded coves, ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and snorkelling.

Sveta Nedjelja first originated when the inhabitants of the nearby inland village of Svirče arrived to work the steep fields facing the sea. The village's historic core consists of old stone houses, perched above more modern apartments and villas directly behind the sea. Today, it is a permanent settlement with around 130 permanent residents.

The area surrounding Sveta Nedjelja is also famous for high-quality wines. Powerful reds thrive on the steep, sandy limestone hills, which provide perfect drainage, and from the intense sun, which shines almost every day in the summer, and reflects off both the rocks and the sea below for triple insolation. The sharp angle and loose soil of the hills on the island’s south side mean that every grape that comes from this terroir is picked by hand. The local grape variety, Plavac Mali, is cultivated here, and you can find various wineries offering tastings and tours, with Zlatan Otok’s Plavac Mali Grand Cru one of the most highly-prized reds in all Croatia. Read our guide to wine on Hvar to learn about the island’s varietals and winemakers.

In addition to vineyards, you'll also notice olive groves scattered around the village. Olive oil production is another important aspect of the local economy.

As with other villages in this region on the island’s south side, compared to the busier towns on Hvar, Sveta Nedjelja offers a more tranquil and laid back atmosphere. It is an excellent choice for travellers seeking a relaxing vacation away from the crowds, and also well-positioned for more intrepid folk who take their holidays with a side of adventure and exploration.

Sveta Nedjelja’s location, while away from the crowds, is still a convenient base for exploring the island, with the nearby town of Jelsa and the vibrant Hvar Town easily accessible.

If you're touring Hvar by powerboat, yacht, sailboat, or catamaran, Sveta Nedjelja is a fantastic spot to stop for lunch or a swim. For those wishing to stay overnight, the village’s restaurant Bilo Idro has a small marina offering water, electricity, showers, and toilets. The inner breakwater is 18 metres long and 4 metres deep, while the outer breakwater is 40 metres long and 7 metres deep.

Like other anchorages on Hvar's southern coast, this marina is susceptible to winds from the south, particularly the infamous jugo. If you plan to tie up here, be sure to call ahead to check for availability and suitable weather conditions.

There are only two car ferry ports on the island of Hvar: Sućuraj and Stari Grad. The island has other ports (Hvar Town and Jelsa) but they only serve catamarans, which are boats that carry only pedestrians. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. Tickets cost about €50 per vehicle and should be booked well in advance, because the car ferries usually fill up. Plan to park your car in the ferry boat line at least an hour ahead of time as an additional precaution.

The drive from Sućuraj is an adventure unto itself, offering stops at two of the best olive oil tasting rooms in the Adriatic – Radojković and Seca – along a winding road that occasionally narrows down to one lane. From Stari Grad, the drive is also beautiful, albeit less white-knuckle. Both directions will lead you to the mountain town of Pitve and the Old Tunnel of Hvar.

Carved out by convicts and other conscripted labour in 1962, the 1.4km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside, just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side – not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you emerge from the tunnel, you will be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. But don’t get too carried away, and be sure that your brakes are in good order. A series of steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore.

The first thing to do upon arriving in Sveta Nedjelja is nothing at all – “fjaka” as the locals call it, which is something like a siesta, but may also include other forms of pleasurable laziness. Sveta Nedjelja is right on the beach, and you can explore in either direction to find your perfect spot. Once you’ve recharged your batteries, the region offers a number of must-see spots, hiking trails, and excursions to keep you busy.

All of the beaches surrounding Sveta Nedjelja are renowned for their pristinely clean, clear waters, perfect for snorkelling and diving.

The main central beach in Sveta Nedjelja is Skala Beach. A large boulder takes up a considerable amount of space, meaning that in July and August, and especially at high tide, it can get a little crowded. To access the beach, you’ll need to walk down a pretty steep path for 5 minutes, and note that you won’t find any shady spots here until quite late in the afternoon.

A little further exploration can offer some major rewards. On the south side of Hvar, you are spoilt for choice with a series of unforgettably beautiful beaches, curtained by vertiginously steep vineyards and limestone cliffs, dotted along the coast. Head east to the neighbouring village of Jagodna, where you will find one of the island’s most gorgeous coves, served by a decent restaurant and plenty of shade from the surrounding pines.

Beaches west of Sveta Nedjelja can be reached by car, but the bumpy gravel access roads mean it’s much easier and heaps more fun to get there on a boat. Here are two not to miss:

Veli Kamik, translating literally to “big rock”, is a striking must-visit spot in Sveta Nedjelja. Probably the most photogenic tree in Dalmatia, Veli Kamik’s tiny bridge connecting said tree to the island has become a poster child of Hvar’s southern coast.

The pier on Veli Kamik was actually constructed in 1924 to facilitate loading onto larger boats that couldn’t dock in Sveta Nedjelja due to insufficient depth. Originally linked by a wooden bridge, it was reinforced with a concrete bridge in 1938. Today, Veli Kamik attracts visitors not just to witness its quaint beauty, but also those seeking the thrill of adrenaline-filled jumps into the sea from the rocks above.

There is a palpable romance to Veli Kamik, so it’s no surprise that it has emerged as a popular wedding destination, ideal for intimate ceremonies followed by glorious, beachside celebrations.

Mentioned above, Bilo Idro is the tasting room of Zlatan Otok, one of Hvar’s oldest and most esteemed wineries. It boasts a stunning location in the heart of Sveta Nedjelja, and a pair of picturesque stone wine “silos” directly on the sea.

Perhaps the only establishment in the world that combines a heart-pumping Via Ferrata with a tasting room located inside an underground cellar – and it happens to be in Sveta Nedjelja. A Via Ferrata is a “path of iron,” a trail forged into Hvar’s cliffs, using a mix of steel ladders and astounding open-work bridges. Not for the faint of heart, but an unforgettable (and safe) way to experience Hvar’s remarkable natural beauty. Drawing on Hvar’s DNA as a wine-producer and a site of richly historic caves, the tasting room is equally historic.

Above the village of Sveta Nedjelja lies a cave that dates back to the Neolithic era, where an Augustinian monastery and small church was built in the 15th century. The Augustinians left the monastery in 1787, and the church remained in use for a further 35 years until a new one was built, more conveniently, in the village. Today, only the remains of the monastery have survived, whereas the church has been completely preserved. It is simply a must-see spot when visiting Sveta Nedjelja.

The cave is about a 30-45 minute hike from Sveta Nedjelja village along a well-marked and maintained trail, although be prepared for steep inclines and a rapid heart rate. Don’t forget to bring plenty of water and wear trekking shoes – this is not the place for sandals or flip flops.

The reward for your exploration is not only at the cave – the hike offers stunning scenery all the way up and, on clear days, views that stretch all the way to Italy. Try to avoid hiking during the peak sun hours. Once at the top, there's plenty of shade to cool off and catch your breath.

Some hikers end up a little off-course and find themselves at Wide Cave, where you won’t find a monastery, but can soak up equally impressive views.

For more intrepid and experienced climbers, the cliffs surrounding Sveta Nedjelja feature several distinct climbing areas. These spots are quite off the beaten track (some frequented more by snakes than climbers), so it's wise to seek detailed route descriptions from Hvar Climbing before setting off.

Red Rocks is one of our favourite swimming and diving spots on the island. Perfect for diving, swimming, and cliff-jumping, these one-of-a-kind limestone formations have been formed from the slow erosion of reddish cliffs that steeply drop into the turquoise waters below. Only accessible by boat, and just a short ride from Sveta Nedjelja, the dramatic limestone of Red Rocks provide simply the perfect framing of the Adriatic below.

Šćedro is an island nature park just off the coast of Sveta Nedjelja on Hvar. With two deep, sheltered bays and good agricultural land, Šćedro was a welcome refuge to sailors throughout history. In fact, its name comes from the word štedri in old Slavonic, meaning charitable or gracious. These qualities continue to make the island a popular anchorage with yachts and sailboats, but in earlier eras the island’s role was more strategic. For example, Caesar and Pompey fought one of their greatest naval battles at Šćedro in 47 B.C., winning Caesar’s fleet control of Vis and from thence the Adriatic.

With so much history, Šćedro offers remarkable sites for divers, including a shipwreck from the 2nd century B.C. containing over 80 intact amphorae, a downed WWII fighter plane, and a sunken Roman villa now submerged in shallow water.

On land, Šćedro is no less intriguing. There is an old quarry, 62 large Illyrian burial mounds, and two semi-abandoned villages, Nastale and Mostir. The latter has a lovely konoba run by the Kordić family, and the remains of an imposing Dominican monastery from the 15th century. Even today, mass is held every year on the first Wednesday in July to celebrate Our Lady of Mercy, the “Fešta u Šćedru” or Festival in Šćedro. In the old days, the altar sat directly on the sea so that the preacher could minister to sailors on board their ships. After the ceremony, the few local inhabited houses open their doors to congregants for a feast of home-made wine, klapa, and Dalmatian dishes that lasts long into the night. It’s a truly breathtaking window into the deep traditions that underpin life here on the island.

For all of its mystery and beauty, Šćedro is easy to get to from Sveta Nedjelja. If you don’t have your own boat, just drive 15 minutes east along the coast road until you reach the neighbouring village of Zavala, and grab one of the ferries that depart at 10:00 and 11:00 each day to the island.

Bars, art galleries, an open-air cinema, fine dining, farmer’s markets, a vast kid’s park, jogging paths, and a zillion gelato bars line Jelsa’s beautifully maintained riva, offering a buzzy change of pace to the tranquillity of Sveta Nedjelja. Stop by for a night out or a resupply. Parking is blissfully cheap and easy, and a gas station waits just outside of town along with two large, brand new grocery stores.

Dinner: Kod Borka is the highest-rated restaurant in Sveta Nedjelja, and for good reason. Very generous portions are guaranteed to satisfy even the largest appetites, served to you on the lovely seaview terrace, where the atmosphere is warm, welcoming, and genuine.

Lunch: Pair your wine tasting at Bilo Idro with a fresh seafood lunch. Take your pick between grilled fish, seafood platters, or Langoustines in buzara, for example – or choose your lobster from their vats of fresh water.

Coffee: Tamaris Restaurant offers a pleasant atmosphere and plenty of shade on its ground-floor terrace for an afternoon pick-me-up. Don’t be afraid to linger. Dalmatians have been known to savour a single cup for hours at a time while catching up with friends. Return one night for dinner on Tamaris’ upper terrace, where pizzas, fresh seafood, and meats are prepared on an open wood fire while you soak up one of the best restaurant sea views on the island.

Drinks: Drive five to ten minutes east to the neighbouring village of Ivan Dolac, where you’ll find Šanpjerin Beach Bar serves up local wines and refreshing cocktails in a gorgeously relaxed atmosphere.

Where to stay in Sveta Nedjelja