Where to stay in Hvar Island, Croatia – Best areas by needs, likes, and budget (2025)

Do you feel most inspired when you’re exploring twisting stone lanes, old churches, and little shops? Or would you rather be gazing out over the endless blue sea, listening to the waves? Maybe a breath of fresh mountain air is what you need to feel like you’re really on vacation.

Hvar is a small island but its many microclimates make it feel bigger; there’s something here for everyone.

If you want to be in a town setting, your best choices are clearly Hvar Town and Stari Grad, which both offer live music, film, museums, craft coffee, shopping, dining, spas, bars, and other cosmopolitan pleasures in an unbelievably picturesque setting. Jelsa is also fun and gorgeous, although not quite as historic as the island’s two largest towns.

If you thought that Stari Grad, which just means “Old Town” in Croatian, was another word for Hvar Town, you would not be the first to make that mistake. In fact, Hvar Town does have a historic core, which is sometimes called the old town or old city. But the two are completely different places with very different atmospheres.

Hvar Town is a tourism magnet that attracts people thirsty for sun, good times, and making new friends. Stari Grad is, as the name suggests, much older, much calmer, dating back at least 2,400 years. It is more for quaint charm and understated luxury.

Being on an island, you are literally surrounded by superb beaches, but for that woke-up-in-paradise feeling, we suggest lodging in one of the following spots:

These coastal villages give you direct access to some of the best beaches in Hvar.

Note that Zastražišće is not on the sea – it’s a small village in the middle of the island – but it has some of the most beautiful coves in Croatia. And if you’re adventurous, there’s a hiking road in Zastražišće that takes you to see the oldest olive tree in Croatia. That old lady is more than 2,000 years old, but you’d never tell – the energy of Hvar is keeping her young.

Before the end of the last Ice Age, Hvar and the other Dalmatian islands were mountain peaks, part of the Dinaric Alps that line the coast of the mainland. You can still feel the island’s mountainous DNA in its rocky terrain, rugged biodiversity, and pure air.

To feel like you’re flying above Hvar, try Brusje or Selca kod Starog Grada. Selca kod Starog Grada sits like an eagle’s nest above Stari Grad Bay, and Brusje occupies a somewhat similar position just above Hvar, and is the most likely place on the island to get snow in the winter.

Between Stari Grad and Jelsa, there is a series of extremely charming little villages nestled into the northern side of the island’s ridge. These are: Dol, Svirče, Vrbanj, and Vrisnik. Life in these villages is all about the agricultural fields and vineyards below. You will appreciate the shade in the summer heat and you can’t go wrong in any of these hillside hamlets.

There is another string of villages between Jelsa and Sućuraj. These places, each with one or several attractive stone churches and the requisite bocce court, have a very unique character. They have main grid electricity (but not if there’s a storm), water is still kept in wells (we call them “gustirna” on the island), the post offices work for two hours every morning, and there are no other municipal services.

Those are just some of the reasons why there are only a couple of hundred permanent inhabitants in these villages, but those who still live there live the same as their grandfathers and grandmothers did. Family and field are the centres around which life revolves. If you’d like to dip a toe into a simpler time, take a look at Bogomolje, Gdinj, Poljica, Selca kod Bogomolja, or Zastražišće. Don’t worry – the holiday rentals all have some form of reliable power and other modern comforts.

While you are on this side of the island, take the opportunity to sample some superb olive oil in a glorious setting at Radojković in Bogomolje, which serves an orange-infused blend over vanilla ice cream in a surprisingly perfect combination of flavours. For the 2025 season, they have prepared new olive oil flavours such as garlic, Hvar herbs, chilli, and truffles.

And swing by Grgo Lučić in Zastražišće, which produces some of the purest essential oils on the island, using their own press and traditional methods. You can find the distillery, which is next to his home, underneath St Nicholas Church – a good starting point for a hike to Vela Glova, the highest peak of eastern Hvar.

If it's your first time on the island, the best place to stay is Hvar Town (for most people). It's the island's hub, well-connected, and a good place to start any adventure. It might not be ideal if you're looking for absolute peace and quiet because it is lively and busy during peak season.

The only "risk" here is falling in love with the cobbled streets and the Mediterranean vibe and wanting to spend all your days there. Fight that urge; the island has so much more to offer.

What gives you energy? Are you all about the beaches? Is nightlife important?

Would you prefer to spend hours away over a long meal or get lost in the past, exploring local history? Or are you most at home hiking a local trail?

All good questions. Let's unpack it all.

Any of the seaside towns will offer plenty of opportunities to get in the water, but Vrboska is perhaps a surprise star for sport.

A lovely little village, Vrboska consists of a canal lined by stone houses and an intriguing fortress church.

It's deceptively small but has a dive centre, an excellent marina for sailboats, and a windsurfing school, as well as kayak, SUP, and jet ski rentals. There are also tennis courts, volleyball, an elaborate water park, and even ping pong tables nearby.

If you’re looking for vibrant nightlife, your choice will be Hvar Town.

But Hvar is so much more than its party scene. The town sits on the sea and has terrific museums and cultural offerings, as well as wonderful restaurants. Yet, these can be experienced as an afternoon visit and are not in themselves a compelling reason to stay in Hvar Town.

If you are planning a big night out, however, you don’t want to end it by scrambling for a taxi. Stroll home instead and wake up the next day to sunbathe with other recovering revellers."

There are so many brilliant restaurants and wineries dotted throughout the island, but a gourmand’s home base has to be Stari Grad.

It's home to some of the island's best restaurants and foodie establishments:

Or relax in the charming cobblestone alleys, enjoying delicious Mediterranean cuisine at Antika or Eremitaž on the northern side of the bay.

The list for foodies goes on and on.

You're also located right next to the Stari Grad Plain, the UNESCO-protected epicentre of Hvar’s wine-making and agriculture for at least 2,400 years. Spend an evening in the Stari Grad Plain for a farm-to-table meal at Poje where delicious food, great company, and a unique atmosphere converge.

Bottom line: if the dilemma is Hvar Town or Stari Grad and you're a foodie, we choose the latter every time.

History buffs are spoiled for choice on Hvar, but if you love exploring the past, you might want to take a closer look at Humac.

Humac is also the departure point for trips to Grapčeva Špilja, or Grapčeva Cave, home to artefacts dating back to 5,000 B.C.

Among them is the oldest depiction of a boat ever found in Europe.

In addition to some of the earliest treasures of a people known as “Hvar Culture” who lived throughout Dalmatia, there is also evidence of trade with other tribes stretching all the way to Slovenia. While the term “caveman” conjures a certain image, these islanders left behind elegant ceramics with smooth curves and polished surfaces.

From Grapčeva, it is possible to see as far as Italy on clear days. That beautiful view might be the very reason why it was chosen as home 7,000 years ago.

Keep in mind that you can’t just go to Grapčeva Cave. You need to book a private guide – or make sure to time your visit to arrive at Humac at 9am on Monday, Wednesday, or Saturday between 15 June and 15 September to join a guided group tour.

Humac's unique position and elevation make it a unique lookout point. You get the best of all worlds – a mesmerising sea view, the mainland, and the humbling sight of the Mosor and Biokovo mountains.

It's an ethno-village, so it's been carefully preserved in its pre-industrial state.

At night, the village’s candle-lit konoba – a place that has featured on several lists of the best Croatian restaurants – is a reminder of how dark night really was for most of civilization. It's like being transported to another time.

The nature around Humac is so pristine that you’ll feel as though the stars are in the palm of your hand. Clear nights offer a brilliant view of the Milky Way and the constellations that shaped so much of the human worldview throughout history.

Few corners of Hvar lack beauty, but consider Gdinj if flora, fauna, and unspoiled nature speak to you.

Gdinj is a beautifully rustic village on the eastern side of the island. It sits above no fewer than ten of the most stunning and tranquil bays on Hvar: Smrska, Kožija, Veprinova, Rapak, Tvrdni Dolac, Torac, Lučica, Skozanje, Jedra, and Srhov Dolac – what locals call Gdinjske Vale. The village of Gdinj, like Zastražišće, is not on the coast itself, but has mesmerising coves on both sides of the island.

Few guidebooks mention these pristine beaches, and even in the height of summer, their crystal clear waters are never crowded. For the intrepid, there is a beautiful walking path down to the bays. Explore this map and follow the red bullseyes.

Near Gdinj, there is also an excellent botanical garden, recently developed by the enterprising scions of an old local family. Called Fjori Fôra, the garden showcases the island’s native plants and their culinary, medicinal, and economic uses.

In this sun-struck, arid environment, all plants have been raised using traditional methods, including an astounding dry-stone wall construction that the ancestors of the Čurin family – the founders of Fjori Fôra – had erected to protect plants from wind and wildlife. The team hosts herb and wine pairings, as well as guided tours, poetry nights, and numerous events for children. They also offer chicly packaged, home-grown herbs and cosmetics, so you can take an organic part of Hvar home with you.

Travelling companions, or the lack thereof, are a huge factor in choosing a great destination. For solo adventurers, the right location and home base can make a getaway that much more special.

Diverse activities and convenient amenities can make all the difference for families visiting Hvar.

Couples will be looking for privacy, special dinner spots, and luxurious digs. Friend groups may be looking for something spacious and accessible for comings and goings. Here are our ideas for different group types.

The town of Jelsa is a dream for families with kids.

With a dazzling view across sea and mountains, Jelsa is home to many families and offers tons of activities for children.

Little ones will love the adorable Mini Disco, a dance party just for them, held on Sunday and Wednesday evenings all summer long in the park. There is also the “Little Town of Jolha” (dialect for Jelsa) Children’s Creativity Festival with weekly performances from local children.

For the Dance of the Sails in June, festively lit historic sailboats take over the harbour. During the summer months, every Thursday evening, Jelsa harbour becomes a dance floor for traditional wooden boats. The same dance happens in Vrboska every Friday night.

Also, Kino Mediterran runs child-friendly, English-language films on its outdoor screen throughout the summer months.

Certain beaches on the island are known as “family beaches,” where children and their antics are welcome (and party-loving adults and their antics are not).

Soline in Vrboska is a family favourite.

It has an impressive water playground that children will go wild for. The parents will appreciate the wind-sheltered location.

Another winner, Grebišće in Jelsa, has a uniquely shallow, sandy shape that stretches out for several hundred metres between olive groves.

It’s a perfect environment for those still getting used to the water or learning to swim. Both beaches are popular with other families, but they are never crowded. Both are also serviced by cabanas with fresh food and a full range of drinks.

Children and parents will love Jelsa Gelateria, which has a mouthwatering selection of cakes and pastries inside, and aRoma, which serves large scoops of premium artisanal gelato with a huge selection of unique flavours.

In fact, it has two large, modern supermarkets just outside the town’s entrance.

The high street is home to smaller but well-supplied grocery stores, a fishmonger, a butcher, and a daily farmer’s market.

Finally, Jelsa is less than five minutes from an emergency room, which is itself a 20-minute helicopter ride from Split. If the need for stitches or any other medical care should arise, you’re in good hands.

Bottom line: if it's a family trip, and you're wondering where to stay, you can't go wrong with Jelsa.

We adore Pitve.

It is one of the oldest villages on the island, established to watch over the settlements and fields below from its incredible vantage point.

Shaded by the rim of the island’s ridgeline, Pitve stays much greener than the rest of Hvar and enjoys a breath of fresh air, even in the peak of summer. This historic village is perfectly preserved. There is no new construction here - just beautifully restored stone houses in a setting that would suit a Mediterranean fairy tale.

This is a place for meaningful moments and restorative quiet. Start the day with a meditative hike together. Swing by Pitve's fabulous little konoba, Dvor Duboković, for lunch. Cycle down the valley to a beach in Jelsa for a mid-afternoon dip in the sea, or drive through one of the best free experiences on Hvar – a hand-made tunnel that connects Pitve with the southern side of the island.

Carved out by convicts and other conscripted labour in 1962, the 1.4 km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. You’ll also have a chance to see the only traffic light on Hvar. While you’re in the tunnel, don’t talk to your friends, lower the windows, and turn the music off. You’ll suddenly become aware that you’re hugged by the island’s strong stone hands. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside – just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side – not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you reach the light at the end of the tunnel, you’ll be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. A series of steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore. Once you arrive, you’ll realise why even locals consider the southern side of Hvar to be the crème de la crème of one of Europe’s best islands.

We don’t suggest you walk through the tunnel. It’s best to go by car – or at least by e-bike. You’ll probably want to stay for a long time, and climbing from the south coast to Pitve takes time and energy on foot.

Jelsa is a close second for trips with friends. There’s plenty to do, you’ll be well-connected to the mainland, and it’s a short hop over to Brač Island. Jelsa is quieter than Hvar Town, making it perfect for friends who like to chat and sip on local wine in a romantic Mediterranean square.

Hvar Town is also an option for obvious reasons – the social scene, the restaurants, the walkability, and the convenience of day trips. From Hvar Town, you can take day trips to the islands of Korčula, Mljet, and Brač via public transport (catamarans). Arrive at or depart from Hvar Town using the catamaran that connects it with Dubrovnik as part of a wider Croatian adventure.

If you want to feel like the Adriatic is your oyster, rent a private boat with a skipper for an island-hopping excursion, lay back – and try not to take a million photos of the Pakleni Islands.

We recommend Velo Grablje for a unique and deeply memorable romantic getaway.

Velo Grablje was at the centre of European lavender production in the twentieth century, and the landscape that developed around the plant’s cultivation gave it a unique look that, thanks to a local non-profit, earned Velo Grablje the title of an ethnovillage and a dry-stone wall park.

Hvar’s terrain is seriously rocky, so previous generations had to pluck out stones one by one from the old red soil.

Then, they heaped them around each fertile pocket to protect their plants from the island’s bracing winds. Surrounding Velo Grablje, this knitted pattern of stone and lavender stretches up and down the hillsides.

At the centre of this almost sculptural landscape sits Velo Grablje – dare we say it – perhaps the most beautiful hamlet on the island of Hvar.

And "most beautiful" is a tall order for Hvar – beach or village, konoba or resort.

Still, Velo Grablje makes a strong case.

It’s completely preserved – no modern concrete buildings to be found here – with a handful of painstakingly restored homes and konobas. Aside from the charming Lavender Festival, which takes place in high summer, life in Velo Grablje is quiet, but it is only a short drive or taxi ride to Hvar Town.

There’s a Museum of Lavender and a small museum of the football club Levanda. Inside, you can find a Juventus jersey signed by Cristiano Ronaldo, Pirlo, Buffon, and other stars… The local football club received it as a gift from Igor Tudor – a former footballer and current head coach of Juventus – whose family is from this small village.

Velo Grablje is one of the loftiest villages on the island, sitting almost on top of the ridgeline, overlooking the shimmering Adriatic.

The sunsets are incredible.

An ancient flagstone path winds down between canyon walls to Malo Grablje, an abandoned sister village. There is an incredibly special konoba in Malo Grablje with just eight tables, called Stori Komin. It's the only working building in this lost little village, aside from our Villa Fulmin, a restored heritage palazzo that sleeps up to 8 guests.

A relatively short hike from Malo Grablje, and you are in Milna, facing south over the endless blue sea. On the way down, you’ll walk through old olive groves and see a lot of Hvar’s nature – but walking back uphill from Milna to Malo Grablje can be exhausting, depending on your fitness level and the temperature. For a more relaxed and romantic tour through these hidden gems of Hvar with your loved one, a private tuk tuk tour could be the perfect option.

Choosing between the three options is fairly intuitive – it comes down to your budget, needs, and how you feel about rewarding yourself for all the hard work over the year.

Hvar has it all - from simple apartments, to boutique and luxury hotels, to private villas.

Staying in a villa gives you privacy and space above all else. It’s the closest you can get to making Hvar your home while you are here. A villa stay also allows you to immerse yourself in a more local way of living – much more so than a hotel.

We may be biased, because we exclusively rent villas on Hvar – but that’s what our guests tell us too.

And you probably know that nothing compares to sitting beside your own pool in your private villa, with a glass of local wine you discovered – by accident – when you ran into the winemaker during the breakfast run picking up fresh croissants from the village bakery.

In a way, staying in a hotel is like colouring in a colouring book.

Breakfast between 8 and 11. The bar closes at 12. No pool dipping after dark.

You are not free to be yourself.

Not fully.

But in a villa...

The whole canvas is just for you and your group.

You get full freedom to paint your Hvar holiday as your soul desires.

From complete privacy and the freedom to enjoy every corner of your accommodation, to the comfort of a home paired with the service of a 5-star hotel – luxury villas bring you the best of both worlds on vacation.

If you can feel the island calling for you, browse our luxury villas on Hvar; choose a canvas worthy of your precious holiday time together.